Ah. I see. I'll ask about valvoline next change then. Thanks for the info. Also, I'm over in Illinois, and recently the weather was bouncing near 0 and then back up to higher temps, but up and down. Do you think the 10w30 will be ok? I know I've read the lower the 1st number, the better for winter it is.

 

Think I'll check out a local chain here. I remember seeing a place called Rapid Lube, it's a local chain of 4 stores. But says they've been in business 33 years. According to their site, it's about 36 for semi synthetic oil change, but 10 off if you get there in like the first hour they open. They have a house brand they use, thought he said it was Johnson or something. But checked on the BBB and they said one complaint in 12 months that is counted as resolved.

Also, I told the guy about the ticking it does, he said does not sound serious, he reccommends lucas oil stabilizer. Heard quite a bit about it. Good idea?

I did ask them about conventional motor oil and he said that the semi synthetic is their basic oil change if you go with the house brand, which he said he thought having some synthetic would help. Thoughts? Price is right. I'd checked with a valvoline place, and they are like 42 for a conventional basic change. For that I should be getting synthetic lol.

 

Like I said, I will never switch a high mileage motor from conventional to synthetic (that includes blend), but if you like seals starting to leak, and parts letting loose, feel free.
I've used Lucas with mixed results, for your purpose it may be beneficial, and I would say put some in.

I live just north of you in Wisconsin. I switched our van from 5w30 to 10w30 it has no issues in the cold. My car is a High-Compression motor that has issues with even the 5w30 in the -0* days.

 

Ok, thanks for the information. I know the guy said they have all the major oils as well, so may ask for valvoline conventional and sub out a quart for lucas then and try running it that way and see how it takes.

 

Another question. I got looking at this car more, going to probably put a set of plugs in it since they are cheap and look easy to get to. I noticed though, it appears that on the top passenger side of the motor, where I think the tick comes from, on the cover near the spark plugs, it appears wet.

I took a mcdonald's napkin(was checking the oil), and rubbed some of it, and it looks like there's grease on top. But also maybe some motor oi. The cover on the driver's side seems dry as a bone. It's been about a week since I put oil in it, and it's almost completely full from when I topped off last Thursday or Friday. My intention is within the next 2-3 weeks to get the oil change as I'm about due for it. Was thinking will change spark plugs. Maybe start saving for plug wires and go ahead and change those in the next month or 2 as they appear to be originals, so probably would not be a bad idea to go ahead and swap them.

Just wondering if the possible oil leak is why I get the ticking noise, since it is coming from that side of the motor, and if a lifter is ticking, the ticking to come from that side makes sense if oil is potentially getting out through a gasket or seal. Still intending to use some lucas, so hopefully that will make things a bit better.

Are these cars known for oil leaks up top?

Note, the leaks don't seem bad enough to be leaving spots or anything. And it's only going through a quart every 1,000-2,000 miles. But to have what looks like a slow leak up there and slight oil usage seems weird. Think maybe I should opt for Valvoline high mileage?

 

Valve cover gaskets are very common. Once the oil mixes with the dirt and dust of driving it starts to look like grease.

 

Makes sense. I looked up a how to, and got a video on how to change it on a neon 2.0. Pretty much the same? I'm not a mechanic by any stretch but these cars look on some things like they are relatively easy to work on. Be nice to have a garage to work.

 

Considering you saw a 4 cyl with a single valve cover right on top, instead of a V6 that requires you to pull the intake off to do the rear gasket, no.

They are relatively easy, get yourself a good manual (haynes, chilton), follow the instructions, take your time, and they are easy enough.

 

Mine is the 2.4 dohc 4 cyl, not the 6. Kind of prefer it that way, as it helps the gas. I would not mind a 6, but once it's up to speed, it's quick enough for getting in and out of traffic quickly.

 

Sorry about that, was thinking about a totally different vehicle there, yes it should be very similar to the neon.

What do you get for mileage if you don't mind me asking?
Our 06 sedan with the V6 averaged 28 and pulled 32hwy, granted it wasn't totally stock (intake, headers, exhaust, tune), and ran only premium fuel (would do around 22 on reg).