Dieing can be CPS also can be bad EGR valve , Bad IAC

 

Pulled the IAC today and it appeared to be stuck out and wouldn't move at all. My dad paid for a new one and I put it in but no difference in the idle. However, the instructions that came with the IAC mentioed something about the idle may still not come down right away after replacing but to drive the car at 40 mph to reset the system. I don't know that I would feel safe driving that car anywhere with the idle so high. Makes it much more difficult to slow down/stop. Guess I will try to let it run more tomorrow and see if there is any difference.

 

I borrowed a USB to OBD2 cable from a friend and spent some time trying to analyze the system using my laptop and various software. I find that the free progs are often very simple. Didn't learn too much in this process however I did see something listed in one of the progs about a closed loop circuit fault in one of the O2 sensors. Is it possible that a bad O2 could cause these issues?

 

Not that Ive seen

 

After finding a full version of a pay scanner prog, I did some more testing. While the computer itself isn't showing any codes on the "DTC codes" tab of this software, I did notice a P0018 referenced in a different section. From the research I've done, it sounds like the crank position sensor could cause some of the issues I have been having. Going to try swapping the sensor out of the 1996 once I figure out where it is located under the hood.

EDIT: I don't think I could possibly encounter more issues through this process. CPS won't come out of the 96. Tried levering it out with a screwdriver and it won't budge at all. $71 for a new one but I hate to throw more money at this if it won't fix it. I'll have to see if I can get a multimeter and try the testing in the sticky... No idea what else to do. This software shows tons of info but I really don't know what if anything is out of spec. Do you know if around 16 degrees is normal for idle timing advance?

Btw thanks for your help and merry Christmas.

 

My 98 with a 2.5 did this when I first got it try the egr valve

 

Going on Week 4 without a car ; ; New plugs and wires in the front 3, no change. Going to pull intake and do back 3 tomorrow. Propane test for vaccuum leaks didn't reveal anything much. Tried swapping out the EGR solenoid, no change. Pulled the EGR and did the "suck" test, seemed ok. Might have to try blocking it off to be 100% sure. Talked to a local mechanic and he suggested I start with either fuel pressure or a blocked catalytic. 2.5 doesn't have a fuel pressure check valve and nobody local has the fitting to adapt it. Doubt it is fuel pressure sicne the car runs and responds fairly well not including the "missing" or whatever it may be. Catalytic has been damaged in some form for quite some time since it smelled from time to time, especially at higher speeds. The bottom of the catalytic does appear to be scorched but there seems to to be plenty of exhaust coming out of the tailpipe. Could the catalytic cause my issues? So tired of not hving a car. I think if I had the money, I would of towed it to a shop by now but unfortunately that isn't an option. Desperately seeking a breakthrough.

Do you think making a video w/ sound of the engine running could help in diagnosis at all?

 

I have a CPS testing procedure here

 

I read the CPS testing procedure last week. I will have to see if I can get enough slack on the wire to move it somewhere accessible for the test. I don't see any way I can get even 1 arm down there w/ the battery in place. Is it possible for the CPS to be bad but the car still runs and there is no codes? Being that I only changed the coil and not the whole distributor, could the cam sensor cause similar problems?

 

All new plugs, tested wires for resistance, seem ok: No change

I don't see how I can possibly get access to test the CPS with the battery in place and the cords are too short to put it anywhere else.
No obvious vacuum leak found. Blocked off EGR valve and no change however I did notice a new symptom. One of the bolts holding my egr downpipe to the exhaust manifold has been snapped off since I got the car. Always seemed to seal up ok as there was never any leaks. Now that I blocked off the EGR, it would seem I am getting a backup of exhaust coming up the back of the engine, assuming its leaking at that point. Plugged cat maybe?