Go back to autozone and tell them that they are stupid. Our cars are part mitsubishi and they started using OBD II in 1995. If they still refuse then go to advance and tell them that you need codes checked. I had a 95 and they told me the same thing until I proved them wrong. Check underneath the dash by the center console. You will see a

____________
/...................\
/_____________\

black connector. This is your OBD II port. Also another way to get them to listen to you is just tell them that your car is a 96 lol. The reason why people say the cars are OBD 1.5 is because some of the cars are an OBD II system with only 1 oxygen sensor so there is no double check like there is now. Most likely they didnt want to work that day so they gave you a line of you know what.

 

Actually no ... the 95's and some 96's were OBD1.5 the obd1 cant read it and the obd2 cant read it they sell an adapter that you can read it

 

I have went to Autozone. A few times. They always obliged me by giving it a try and we always recieved "Connection Error".

 

my advanced aito can read the 95/96 they have a plug on the and that adapts it ...if I remember properly there are wires reversed in the adapter

 

Did a thorough check for vacuum leaks. None found. I have heard about the adapters needed for my car to get the OBD codes. I was told it was a Y adapter. Anyway. thats not my concern. The idle is was I am tackling now.

I want to thank everyone for the advice.

Learning alot even if it hasn't solved my issue.

 

I have the same problems but can't find an "adapter"!
I have an Actron CP9180 scanner and it gives me the same screen.
I'm still looking for hwlp with the "Y" cable myself and can't find one, any luck on your end? Did you ever get the problem solved?What was it? I have been fighting the same issue for almost 6 months and really need to get this pollished turd back on the road!

 

Jeepfreek, I believe my issues were a combination. It idles now. Actaully runs pretty good. The CEL light comes back on after it warms up but I believe thats due to a O2 sensor. The weather here has been VERY hot(over 100) and humid so I have not investigated. The bulk of my idling issues ended up being the engine computer.

One thing to note is that the previous owners did NOT take care of the car
so I am doing alot of repairs that are untypical. Its getting there.

 

Yeah I bought this one from a body shop where the owner bailed on the repair costs. It needed rocker panels from the fender to rear wheel arch! It looked and sounded great when I brought it home but it runs like crap now? The motor looks like it was rebuilt before I got it due to extra parts left in the trunk and empty boxes from a bearing set and gasket kit wrapper. I drove it from the shop to outside onto the trailer then from the trailer into the garage and ran it for about 30 mins at the shop with out a single issue but now it wont idle, half the time it wont give up codes and as soon as it gets into gear the idles so low it craps out and dies? I've replaced every sensor except the O2, it has been replaced during the swap by the looks of it, changed the plugs, cap and rotor and still nothing!

It may not be the same issue but if your trying to "floor" the throtle it seems to fall flat after 3500rpm and wont even pass 4000rpm? Any clues? Coil/distributor, ECM, cloged cat coverter? Anything!

 

Have you tried to key dance the codes ?

 

Yes and I get different codes not everytime but nearly as much as not getting any at all! The most repeated is battery disconnected and map sensor but even after replacement it will still show up? I'm running out of patience!