Hey guys, I got a 2000 avenger 2.5 v6 with 115k yesterday for $700. The car starts and runs A+, no smoke or knock/tap, no frame damage,(though you will soon see the "custom" paint work done which makes it look like it was slammed), AC works well, windows/sunroof all work, but parts of it has been mangled by a tuner (had to be) and a stupid, fat woman. I asked the CV clicking on the test drive, she tried to tell me the metal on metal noise was a tire. The PS does not work. She said it was the pump but wouldn't it whine or make a grinding noise, or any noise?? I am thinking the rack, is there anyway to test the rack?? How much of a pain is it to replace since the part is cheap?? The transaxle POURS out fluid from the drivers side when it is only slightly lifted from the passenger side. The wires have been ripped from the O2 sensor that is the second back in the exhaust (hoping to get a part number for which one this is). What is really keeping me from driving it is the wiring, my brake lights do not work. I found some unclipped wires in the trunk and some other cut wires on the rear passenger side. When I clipped in the plug the passenger rear brake light stays illuminated, even when the car is off, there is also a ground to the middle of the trunk right below were the it opens, a few inches above the license plate but on the inside. I know the check engine light should be on due to a ripped out O2 sensor. I found about 4 wires with square plugs,similar to speaker connections,unplugged under the dash board. I will post pics and state colors in daylight. Ther are a couple unconnected wires under the hood.

My question is, can I fry the car by hooking these back up?? Is there anyway I can kill the car or short out things by reconnecting cut wires?? Also what is the result of putting fuses in that are lower amperage than is supposed to be in?? Found a couple 10A in 15 spots and 15A in 20A. I really want my brake lights to work so I can drive. thanks for reading my essay length post and I appreciate any advice or knowledge I can ge. Take care and happy motoring.

The PS pump COULD be bad or it could be the rack ... Have you checked fluid levels ?

The Transaxle leak would concern me , is the case cracked ? There should be no leaking when you raise the car

Sounds like the brake pedal switch broke causing the lights to stay on and they unplugged to prevent battery drain

No IDEA on the plugs underdash since I have no idea what plugs or what was done by the "tuner"
lower value fuses are not a problem , Higher values can be trouble

Is this the correct brake switch I need??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BWD-Automoti...2f2b0e&vxp=mtr

Thanks!!!

Also the trans does not leak if the car is level. Could it be leaking from the drivers CV axle area since the other sides CV is so destroyed?? Just to clarify, the passenger CV is bad when it clunks turning to the left and there is play in the axle back and forth between the trans and the hub?? Thanks again.

Brake switch looks correct

unsure about the transaxle leak you'd need to see where its coming from

If the case is cracked on the trans, how difficult is it to move the guts into the case?? I found a case, worst case scenario, for $150, delivered. Trans costs about $500 so is it worth the extra $350 to not move it all over?

It's a "REBUILD" not an easy job

I was wondering if you can tell me which o2 sensor I need?? If you start at the "headers" and follow the pipe toward the rear, there are two sensors almost next to each other right beneath the engine. The second one back from the start has all four wires ripped out. Just trying to get an OE part number and also is this upstream or downstream?? Thanks Mr. Venge.

Also with my power steering issue, there is no fluid in the system. The tank is empty. I know the boots are torn or damaged on the rack. Is there some way to tell if the rack is shot?? Will it just leak fluid, a noise and could the inner tie rods simply be bad?? I just thought an empty pump would squeal or moan, or is that just until it breaks??

One last thing for today, I hope. Are the control arms supposed to move or have any play in them?? They do not seem to be bent. The parts are very cheap for this car, is it easy at all to remove and replace the bushings?? The straight control arm that runs parallel to the axle will twist about 20 degrees each way from its vertical position and the curved rear arm will also move about he same amount when the wheels are turning. Time for a replacement???? Take care.