Last Sunday my check engine light came on, the car still sounded the same and ran the same. I went to use a scan tool on it found out I need to adapters so Im waitin till this friday to take to a shop. Anyways it seemed like alot of stop and go triggers the light cause after a couple of days it went off YES!. Now yesterday it came back on I I was @ a light stop then went to pull off a car came out so I had to stop again then went a couple of yards and stop at the next light the the Engine light came on again NOOOO![:@] I guessin with the miles on the car its the O2 Sensor. Another reason I think its that cause she lags power BAD! Light turns green bring her up to 1,500 - 2,000RPMS and she stutters like im in 5th. but when I burn up the clutch and start letting off around 3,000rpms she comes off perfect. Whats da deal?

Then now my car is having probs gettin into 1st and my clutch peddle seems to have no umm... respons? I can push down on the clutch like prolly an inch or so until I actually feel the resistance of the actual clutch disengaging. (Yes I'm spelling Bee Champ) I'm guessing what evere wire that disengages the clutch has come loose. Hopefully!!

 

The clucth problem got worse she didn't go into 1st everytime I did she would vibrate a lil like she want to move. Pumped the clutch a lil now she back to normal. Just wondering what causes that? P.S 96 I4 5-speed

 

Suppose to take her to the shop today but the clutch had no feel in it. Like the thing is there for decoration. So its like $80 for the tow plus $90 just for them to use a scan tool on it another $45 for them to actually physically look into what triggered the codes plus parts and labor to fix the problem. Yeah right[8D] Looked at the lil transmission cap above the brake booster BONE DRY! LOL. Correct me if im wrong but I think the transmission seals have broke. And please tell me that, the cap that says transmission fluid on it with dirt all in in is really for decoration. Help a brotha out

P.S as far as that stuttering prob it wuz the EGR Valve and O2 Sensor that has gone bad. Just remove them and gain 10 more horses. Naw just playin I got them replaced.

 

Yeah, that resevoir is supposed to have fluid in it, lol. Dirt isn't a good sign either. It may be time to flush it and bleed it. The flush is to get any dirt in there out. Hell, I would remove the lines and do it that way so that dirt doesn't clog the master and slave cylinders.
The reason for no feel, is because there's no fluid, lol. The clutch is hydrolic and without the fluid, you pressing in the clutch won't affect the fork on the tranny because there's nothing sending that pressure down the line.
The clutch lines are also it's own system meaning that it only physically connects to the transmission through....clutch pedal, fluid, master cylinder, fluid, slave cylinder, slave rod to fork, fork pivots on ball. So, if you are low on clutch fluid, you are only low on clutch fluid. The tranny fluid is seperate from that...lucky you

 

Finally got the time to look more into the prob. Right infront of the engine where the its coonects to the trans theres a piece with a black boot around it. The boot lloks like a black hair schrunch but its bulging on 1 side so I went to realign it across and YES! I saw brake colored fluid leaking. So I found the leak, hopefully thats the only 1, but I don't know what that piece is called. Here are sum pics I zoomed out so I can get can A better idea of where it is then zoomed all the way in. Its right next to the engine mount.

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