Trimming fenders on a 89'
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Trimming fenders on a 89'
Hey All,
I have been searching the forums and reading. Hoping to get more info. I have a 89 regular cab,5.2, shortbed 4x4. I want to cut the fenders and try an fit 35"s if I can. What body mount is that gets in the way? what back spacing is best for the rims..5"?
It currently has 31's and some type of lift. Body lift for sure and the front end sits higher than the back. I have been using it for a ranch truck for last 5-6 years, runs good and dependable. I would like to make it a toy for me and kid to play with off road now.
Thanks for any pointers
I have been searching the forums and reading. Hoping to get more info. I have a 89 regular cab,5.2, shortbed 4x4. I want to cut the fenders and try an fit 35"s if I can. What body mount is that gets in the way? what back spacing is best for the rims..5"?
It currently has 31's and some type of lift. Body lift for sure and the front end sits higher than the back. I have been using it for a ranch truck for last 5-6 years, runs good and dependable. I would like to make it a toy for me and kid to play with off road now.
Thanks for any pointers
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Joined: Oct 2012
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the mount that is right behind fender.. front of door ... it needs to be moved like 3 inches roughly ...
the driveline would be hard pressed to support the 35's regardless if doing any offfroading, I had 33X14's and broke enough with moderate wheeling..
33X12.5 would be the optimal unless u get over 6 inches lift, heavy offset and body mount relocation fender trimming just wont cut it unless your building a mall runner that don't need any suspension flex atall...
for my 14 wides I had a 4 inch backspace and still touched frame on turn but nothing severe .. my 33X12.5's were fine with 4 backspacing .. and my 32X11.5 were fine with stock 5.5...
remember tho more you space out, the more room you need to turn since pivioting angle changes
the driveline would be hard pressed to support the 35's regardless if doing any offfroading, I had 33X14's and broke enough with moderate wheeling..
33X12.5 would be the optimal unless u get over 6 inches lift, heavy offset and body mount relocation fender trimming just wont cut it unless your building a mall runner that don't need any suspension flex atall...
for my 14 wides I had a 4 inch backspace and still touched frame on turn but nothing severe .. my 33X12.5's were fine with 4 backspacing .. and my 32X11.5 were fine with stock 5.5...
remember tho more you space out, the more room you need to turn since pivioting angle changes
Last edited by 92DakotaClub; Sep 8, 2014 at 09:55 PM.
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Jul 2009
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the mount that is right behind fender.. front of door ... it needs to be moved like 3 inches roughly ...
the driveline would be hard pressed to support the 35's regardless if doing any offfroading, I had 33X14's and broke enough with moderate wheeling..
33X12.5 would be the optimal unless u get over 6 inches lift, heavy offset and body mount relocation fender trimming just wont cut it unless your building a mall runner that don't need any suspension flex atall...
for my 14 wides I had a 4 inch backspace and still touched frame on turn but nothing severe .. my 33X12.5's were fine with 4 backspacing .. and my 32X11.5 were fine with stock 5.5...
remember tho more you space out, the more room you need to turn since pivioting angle changes
the driveline would be hard pressed to support the 35's regardless if doing any offfroading, I had 33X14's and broke enough with moderate wheeling..
33X12.5 would be the optimal unless u get over 6 inches lift, heavy offset and body mount relocation fender trimming just wont cut it unless your building a mall runner that don't need any suspension flex atall...
for my 14 wides I had a 4 inch backspace and still touched frame on turn but nothing severe .. my 33X12.5's were fine with 4 backspacing .. and my 32X11.5 were fine with stock 5.5...
remember tho more you space out, the more room you need to turn since pivioting angle changes
92' is it the mount in front of both doors?, I can handle relocating. I dont have truck at house yet,,its still at ranch. From what I understand 4.10's is the deepest I can get for the the factory front/rear? I want to build more of a mud truck, not a crawler. So flex is not as important on this one. I can assure you this is NOT Mall crawler. This is the ugliest Dakota you have ever seen. Not a straight panel on it and a victim of, "hold my beer" on many occasion on private property
Its been a damn good 4x4 for sure. I figure spool the rear and leave front open since it will be under enough strain. If 33's are the recommendation, then thats what we will do...might save the gear change since it has had plenty of power with 31's. thanks. This right after I bought it and we were p;aying with it
Last edited by saltbranch; Sep 21, 2014 at 03:17 AM.
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well I shouldn't say 33's were fine. I had 5.5 inches lift.. 3.5 suspension from torsion key mod and rear spring hanger flip .. and 2 inch body lift, honestly I cut it close to the body mounts.. the offset I needed so I could turn without chewing up the frame with the 2million ply boggers hard rubber LOL (10-12psi) I also had to trim the bottom of fender on backside (door side) a hair for suspension flex ... otherwise it was great also front bumper lower plastic needs to be torn off or cut to clear...
This was my 92 .. was original everything bought it from original owner with 130k on it so like what 85k miles? (im in Canada) for 3 grand.. built it sold it year and a half later for 5500.00 bought a Jeep ... been a money pit since lol
This was my 92 .. was original everything bought it from original owner with 130k on it so like what 85k miles? (im in Canada) for 3 grand.. built it sold it year and a half later for 5500.00 bought a Jeep ... been a money pit since lol