Ok. I have a 1996 dodge dakota club cab slt 3.9L. New battery, spark plugs, heater blower motor and reistor, front suspension and fuel pump. I changed the fuel pump and suspension this last fall 2018(cold enough to have the heater on in the garage maybe 20f). B4 I did the fuel pump it would start just fine in the morning(sometimes had to crank again and start 2nd 3rd time). But after awhile lets say 5 hours after shutting it off I had a hard time starting up again. if uphill could have been more than 5 cranks. Sometimes driving around town than stopping at a light and at a complete stop or upon taking off after. It would just die. Started up again just fine after a few cranks. The exhaust isn't the best and it would back fire at times.( I plan on changing exhaust if I can get it running again). So after changing the fuel pump it seemed to have fixed the random kill overs and had no problem starting.(I did kink or bend the line a little right on the bend to the pump to get back on the pump but I bent it back enough to not leak). But as the temp was dropping it started to start doing the same symptoms from b4 but not as bad. It has ran out of gas completely a couple of times after the new fuel pump because my gas gauge doesn't work. I try to keep a track on miles and fill up but with the cold and leaving it idle at times to warm up its hard to determine.Eventually it stopped starting after temps dropped low enough. So I brought it back to garage assuming it was something other than the fuel pump. Did a compression test the only one that was missing was first front right facing the engine. Tested all spark plugs for spark there all sparky. Took an ohm meter to all fuel injectors there all getting connection. Haven't checked for spray. Switched the a.c. clutch relay with the fuel pump relay and it still clicks. But couldn't hear pump. After 3rd day sitting in the garage I could hear the pump clear as day as if it was brand new. Took it home sat over night it started next day. Later that day or next day it was back to not starting. It has gas in it. But can't hear pump like I did after changing it and after sitting in garage. Relays still click. But what's odd is that when I brought it into the garage it would turn over and act like it wanted to started. But if I pushed on the gas peddle or had someone move the throttle it wouldn't do anything.
I'm almost certain I have a 22 gallon tank and I bought a 11 Idk if that has anything to do with it because it touched the bottom of the tank putting it in my dumbass mistake. I'm looking for some advice to help me before I start lowering tank and buying random ****.
The only lim codes or check engines light codes was 19 lights minus initual first b4 blinking. Disconnected neg terminal and turned key over for 15 seconds. Took key out than connected again. Tried turning over 15 times and every time it would act like it wasn't getting gas like before I could hear it try to start and exhaust sputter like it was in the garage the first two days. Check codes again and only 13 blinks.

 

Pull the bed to work on it; that way, you can diagnose and make sure it's happy before you refill/empty/refill too many times.

With the bed off, it's a lot easier to trouble shoot if you have voltage or not at the tank when cranking; if you have fuel coming out at the tank or not when cranking; etc.

RwP

 

I did a fuel pressure test the other day before the lim code test. And zero pressure Idk if it dropped at all after cranking because I wasn't being smart enough to face it towards me. But I still could not smell gas in the testing unit and after releasing pressure from fuel rail there was nothing on rag. Which I have read is normal but Idk. I tried to remove the bed the first time changing pump but where I live(south dakota) there's a lot of salt and the trucks pretty rusted underneath. I couldn't get bolts to losen and my brothers a tight *** about me taking to much space and time in his garage.

 

the "19 blinks" /13 blinks" makes no sense. you have to pay attention to "breaks" in the blinks. the highest code would be a "55".... which would be 10 blinks, 5 then a longer pause then 5 more. This would be "end of codes"

my 1st thought would be the splice that was known to cause problems on these trucks, on driver side fenderwell near the fuse box.
I don't see anything about distributor cap rotor or wires being replaced? As much a part of a "tune up" as the spark plugs. and PLEASE do yourself a favor, it is literally only a few bucks difference; BUY the better grade of parts. cheap cap n rotor has alum contacts, better ones are brass. Aluminum corrodes faster and doesn't last near as long.

When you say something about the only cylinder, the one on the right when facing the engine, what was up with that? Sounds like #1, front/ driver side, right? What was up there compared to the others? Again even if rough, if there is a problem with compression on 1 cylinder it "should" still run, even if rough.
Have you sprayed any carb cleaner, gas (be careful here, don't need much) into the top of throttle body with air cleaner off and then try to start? Does it try to start then at all, even if only for a few seconds?