The guys couldn't do an alignment because the uppers and lowers on both sides are in bad shape (though I'm not hearing any thumping or clunking).
I can do the job (I have a buddy...), but I thought I'd check with smarter people about maybe swapping out the whole assembly, or upgrading the suspension instead of fixing parts that have 240,000 miles on them.
Any input is appreciated!

 

Well, new control arms aren't currently available.

A guy on Facebook swears the 2nd Gen control arms fit - IF! - you also swap to 2nd Gen spindles.

I'd just rebuild the control arms.

You didn't state if your truck is 2WD or 4WD; for 2WD, like my 1988, I'd use poly control arm bushings (I used Energy Suspension, then found out Prothane graphite impregnates their black poly bushings; if I redo, it'll be with Prothane Black.) and a quality ball joint assembly (over the years, Moog quality has gone downhill a bit; I've got ProForged in there now, and the alignment guy asked about them due to how well they're doing.)

4WD - Same combo, but you have to rework the 2WD bushings to fit the 4WD control arm.

That's my take on it. If you don't want the truck to be down, order some used control arms from some boneyard (I'd search car-part.com and possibly hollanderparts.com for folks near me, or that can ship to me) and rebuild those.

RwP

 

Thanks Ralph. I'm considering options, though I question anything more than duralast from autozone considering the trucks age and condition.
one point of clarification tho.... The bushing you refer to is #30 on this schematic, right?
There's some kind of bushing to the steering control arm to get while I'm at it too, right?
Probably do stocker shocks too...
(I'm Paul in riot-torn uptown mpls, btw)

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/part..._sway_bar.html

 

#30 in the schematic is the cup for the ball joint; not a bushing. The one that's not actually available is # 17 on https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/part..._sway_bar.html . But if yours is 2WD (the suspension link you posted), then they should be available; check pricing, though, I think a full set of Prothane or ES polys will run you about what DuraLast rubber does.

I think you'll find ProForged from RockAuto cheaper than Dural(doesn't)Last from AutoZone - but TBH, I don't buy cheap **** for suspension parts. (I'll shop and compare, true, but ... my life depends on that stuff holding together. Personal choice - my life is worth a LOT more than $5 or so ... )

If yours is 2WD, then Energy Suspension or Prothane bushings are fairly easy to work with, especially if you can use the drill bit walk method to remove the rubber from the shell.

The rubber part on the steering column is NLA and has been for over a decade; I had to make an intermediate shaft out of a shaft kit I bought off eBay.

I would recommend KYB Gas-A-Just for "stocker" replacements; the Rancho ES5000s I have on the truck now aren't as good IMO, so I'm going back to KYB. (Truck bottoms out on bumps easier due to the shock not doing its job as well; doesn't affect ride height, but DOES affect bob and jounce.)

RwP

 

I should have clarified, my truck is 4wd, but I think you mentioned I could work with the 2wd bushings if I have to.
also, I drive it about 600 miles a month.

 

OK. You were a bit confusing, using the 2WD suspension diagram, not the 4WD suspension diagram.

I don't care if it's 600 miles a year or 600 miles a day - never, EVER use cheap **** for suspension parts. Your life depends on them.

As does the life of those around you.

Hrmm ... 4WD? I have an offer - I accidently ordered 4WD KYBs back when I ordered my last ones, and had them too long to ship back.

I can ship them to you new in box for about $50.

Or buy elsewhere; I'm not trying to twist your arm.

RwP

 

I've been shopping and I'd like to get the Prothane bushing kit because I'm having difficulty sourcing 4wd components.
So I need guidance on whether the other bushings can be (modified where necessary) used?
Also, the proforged ball joints are clearly threaded, and I understand the stock ones are pressed in. Will there be any drama there?

 

The other three spots are identical 2WD/4WD, so yes, they can be used.

That fourth position is the one that has to be modified.

Are you SURE your upper ball joint is pressed in? Check carefully - I thought so too, then cleaned the upper control arm and found the flats which scream "Thread me, baby!!!" And yes, if yours ARE pressed in, the threaded in ones won't work.

The lower was press in, though, on my 1988 2WD. It also had a retaining clip IIRC, but it has been a while. (Next LCA rebuild, I'm doing spares from the boneyard so I can swap in a few hours personally. But they're easier to pull without that torsion bar.)

RwP

 

You're just about a ton of help, my friend.
I'll let you know how it all goes in a couple weeks.