I just purchased an250,000mi 2WD '89 Dodge Dakota with a V6 for $1.

Its has been sitting under a tree for abouta year.I removed the mouse nestfrom the engine compartment before turning the key, and to my amazementthe engine still runs! The paint is shot, one tire needs to be replaced, but the fluids look good, and for $1, what the heck.

The Previous owner says the last time it was on the road, the front wheel had a horrible vibration, and the brakes should be replaced. I'm picking up new pads and front rotors, but I have never worked on brakes where the hub and rotor are one unit. (used to mitsubishi stuff)

What kind of tools will I need to remove the old rotors, and what do I need to know in order to install the new parts?

Justin

 

I just did my front brakes this past week, so it is still fresh.
Keep in mind that I have a '96 so my rotors are a bit different.
Take off lugs - need a long-handled wrench, with the right socket.
Remove wheel.
Remove dust cap - Flat-head screwdriver.
Remove cotter pin - Pliers, will generally work.
Remove castle nut.
Remove spindle nut You will need the right socket.
Mind your wheel bearing - You will most likely want new ones anyway....
Take out caliper bolts - You will likely need an allen-head wrench.
Take caliper off. If you are doing the pads too, which is usually best, you can take them out of the caliper.
Take off the rotor. You may have to use force. They are at the end of their useful life anyway, don't be too afraid to hurt them, but be wary of the bearings....
Take the wheel seal off of the back side of the rotor being sure to note the direction it faces. - that flat-head screwdriver will come in handy.
Take out the inner bearing, again noting its direction.
Replace or reuse your old bearing, it is up to you, either way be sure to keep them clean and especially to repack them with grease.
Grease the spindle.
Put inner bearing back into back side of rotor, facing the same way as when you took it out.
Put seal in over bearing, again, facing the same way as when you took it out. - you may need a tool to LIGHTLY tap the back of the seal. Be sure not to bend it...
You can put the rotor back on the spindle, now.
Then pack the outer bearing and place it back into the rotor.
Then put in the washer, spindle nut, castle nut, *new* cotter pin, dust cap.
Now, to switch gears... the pads.
Clean the calipers with brake cleaner.
Put caliper grease on the back of the pads and the places that the pad moves against the caliper.
Be sure not to get the grease on the friction part of the pad.
Put the pads back into the caliper.
Grease the caliper pins.
Place the caliper on the rotor.
Put the wheel back on. Replace the lugs.
That is about it.

To recap what parts you need:
Long-handled wrench for lugs.
flat-head screwdriver
pliers
socket
allen wrench

New parts:
Pads
rotors
bearings
seals
cotter pins

Chemicals you need:
caliper grease
bearing grease
brake cleaner

 

That is exactly what I wanted to know Think You!

I suppose I need the manual to know how tight to make th spindle nut?

 

The spindle nut just has to be snug. You don't want to cause damage to the bearing and you have the castle nut and cotter pin to keep the nut from backing off.
Glad to help.

 

I finished one corner last night.

I was able to installthe Rotor, Bearings, Grease Seal, and Pads. I packed the bearings with grease, use a 2x4 and a hammer to seat the Grease Seal, and used Hi-Temp synthetic grease on the Caliper Pins. I also used a little brake-clean to take care of the finger prints, and the nut I put on snug.

I did a little test drive and everything looks good to go. Thank you again for your help.

 

Not a problem, glad to help...
Good to hear that everything seems to be going fine.