Hard starting when hot
Alright, so this has been bothering me ever since I got the truck. ('95 sport with 5.2 and 5speed)
When the truck is cold (first crank of the day) it fires right off.If I drive it and run into a store etc and try to crank it when it's warmed up it always turns over for about 4-5 seconds before it will finally fire and run. I know this can't be good for a starter, so I was wondering if you guys have experienced this problem/found a solution. Truck runs great other than this.. No CEL except for the occasional EGR code. It has a fresh set of quality plugs, wires/cap/rotor.
When the truck is cold (first crank of the day) it fires right off.If I drive it and run into a store etc and try to crank it when it's warmed up it always turns over for about 4-5 seconds before it will finally fire and run. I know this can't be good for a starter, so I was wondering if you guys have experienced this problem/found a solution. Truck runs great other than this.. No CEL except for the occasional EGR code. It has a fresh set of quality plugs, wires/cap/rotor.
I sort of have a starting problem after it runs a while. mine will start easily but after it starts it wants to die again unless I hold the throttle. could be a fuel pressure problem for both of us. I would like to know and I will keep my eye on cutlass84,s thread.
I'm no dodge specialist, but know my way decently around most all cars. I pulled my buddies 88 into the shop tonight with the same problem everyone seems to be having. I dont know emissions like the back of my hand at all. But we are getting a hard bog, occasional backfire and intermittent highy idling I believe. The air pump on this particular truck is siezed, however, i dont think its a big deal. I haven't checked the cat, or thrown a meter on one sensor. But from looking at all the things you and others have tried, helping it bits at a time (just as any tune up would do). I'd say the little devil in our problem here is the EGR valve! If you understand how the emission and ignition systems work together it makes sense to me. The EGR being stuck open would toss the same amount of dead air into the intake at all rps, hence the bog on low end. The o2 sensor gets cold from being far too rich, signaling the pcm to crank up that timing up a pile of degrees. It does so, giving the intermittent high idle, and loss of torque. The loading up of the engine, and rich gasses in the exhaust cause the random backfires. Mine idles high for a while then then drops low (Often dying). This indicates what most, would think is a TPS, MAP, IAC, or vacuum leak.. But what I'm thinking is the PCM advances itself so much, while trying to counter with the IAC, that it maxes out on advanced and resets...? killing the engine from the sudden slap in the face retardation. I don't know about you gut but I'm cutting out a piece of tin, tossin down some black RTV and pluggin a couple vacuum lines after I get out of class tomorrow.... CSXfan a clogged Cat was a good try abd most likely the cause of your stuck EGR. I know on some vehicles there is a solenoid that controls it? Maybe one of the three on your pass valve cover? I haven't looked into what they control.... Anyways I'll let you guys know how it works out tomorrow! Oh and until the PCM gets out of closed loop it doesn't touch the timing I believe, giving you a false sense of hope everytime it runs decent for a little while cold.


