'92 Dakota starting problem
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Joined: Sep 2008
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'92 Dakota starting problem
This is my 1st post, I found you guys while Googling for my problem.
Just bought a '92 with 112K on it. 4X4, Auto, 318CI, A/C, Minute Mount Electric plow and 4 brand new tires. Along with a set of 4 mounted snow tires. All for $1500
The previous owner (a friend) used it for plowing his car lot for the last 5 years.
Problems: Sometimes it will turn over, but not start. he showed me how to smack the connector that plugs into the ECU on the inside right fender. Sometimes just a smack against the outside of the fender will do the trick.
What I've noticed is when I turn the ignition key on and DO NOT hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds, that's when the problem will appear. When hitting the ECU, I'll hear the fuel pump, along with some relays and solonoids under the hood.
I've opened up and cleaned the contacts in the connector and opened the ECU itself, but it's sealed.
Should I just go for a rebuilt ECU? Or do you guys have some tricks I could try?
Just bought a '92 with 112K on it. 4X4, Auto, 318CI, A/C, Minute Mount Electric plow and 4 brand new tires. Along with a set of 4 mounted snow tires. All for $1500
The previous owner (a friend) used it for plowing his car lot for the last 5 years.
Problems: Sometimes it will turn over, but not start. he showed me how to smack the connector that plugs into the ECU on the inside right fender. Sometimes just a smack against the outside of the fender will do the trick.
What I've noticed is when I turn the ignition key on and DO NOT hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds, that's when the problem will appear. When hitting the ECU, I'll hear the fuel pump, along with some relays and solonoids under the hood.
I've opened up and cleaned the contacts in the connector and opened the ECU itself, but it's sealed.
Should I just go for a rebuilt ECU? Or do you guys have some tricks I could try?
Champion
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,119
Likes: 5
From: Sycamore, Illinois (displaced to Arkansas)
So I take it cleaning the connector didn't work. That was gonna be my first suggestion.
I'd take another look at everything.
Look at/for:
Bent or pushed in pins
Any rust/corrosion/etc
Enlongated holes on the connector
I'd suggest to take some dielectric grease and put a very tiny bit in the cavities of the connector. (I say very tiny amount so, when you put the connector back on the PCM, there is no "cross contamination"). Connect the connector and than unconnect it to take sure no dielectric grease squeezed out.
Make sure you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the PCM connector.
Does the connector fit in securely on the PCM?
I'd take another look at everything.
Look at/for:
Bent or pushed in pins
Any rust/corrosion/etc
Enlongated holes on the connector
I'd suggest to take some dielectric grease and put a very tiny bit in the cavities of the connector. (I say very tiny amount so, when you put the connector back on the PCM, there is no "cross contamination"). Connect the connector and than unconnect it to take sure no dielectric grease squeezed out.
Make sure you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the PCM connector.
Does the connector fit in securely on the PCM?
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Joined: Sep 2008
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Thanks for the tips
I tried everything you suggested. No change. I took the cover off the ECU. Everything is sealed in exopy, but the are a few components sticking up above. If I lightly tap on the top of one of the capacitors, the all the relays under the hood and the fuel pump will cycle on and off.
Reading up on rebuilt ECU's, I understand that you have to bring the truck to a dealer and have the VIN burned into the replacement, before it will even run.
Any trueth to that?
Reading up on rebuilt ECU's, I understand that you have to bring the truck to a dealer and have the VIN burned into the replacement, before it will even run.
Any trueth to that?