Need Help ASAP
When I go to start the truck the starter does not engage. I checked the starter solenoid and it was good. I am not getting any power to the starter solenoid for some reason. I have looked at all the wires in the starting system. I Checked the starter relay it tested good. Please help I am out of possibilities.
Sounds like the circuit to the relay is bad then, there is a splice, similar to the notorious ASD splice that could be the culprit, check the splices. If there's no power to the solenoid and the relay tested good, it sounds like a circuit issue, corrosion most likely
I checked those wires and there wasn't any corrosion there. The wire that goes to the starter solenoid is fine too. This has me stumped becuase the truck has been sitting fo about 2 weeks now.
Had the same problem...no power to the battery terminal on the starter relay circuit ( its the wire closest to you when standing beside the fender ). The furthest one is to the solenoid, the right one is the ignition feed ( when you turn the key, you should see 12 volts ), the left one is the ground. Yes, there is a connector somewhere in the wire loom that goes back into the cab that provides battery voltage to the hot wire in the starter relay, but I wasn't about to start tearing that apart. First of all, get a digital tester...you can buy a cheapy for under twenty bucks...its invaluable fot this.
Pop the top off of the fuse box/relay box that the relay sits in...there's 4 tabs you gently open up with a small standard screwdriver. Disconnect the battery before you do this.
Turn the fuse box over gently...there's a whole herd of wires in there so you don't want to inadvertently unplug any of them.
I forget the color coding ( schematics are up in the garage )but looking at the starter relay circuit from the bottom of the fuse/relay panel, you'll be dealing with the top one now. Note: wiring schematics are located in the F.A.Q.s...find them...read them...understand them...kiss whoever posted them. They are absolutely invaluable for this.
In the center of the fuse panel, is the main battery feed to the fuses and relays, which is identifiable by the two large wires bolted to the bottom of the box connected by a common steel tab. Undo one bolt ( 10 mm if I remember correctly )...trace the battery lead from the relay until it disappears into the wire loom. Cut it so that you have enough wire to work with...you're going to put an inline fuse and a hoop connector directly to the battery feed. Run the fuse outside of the fuse box and loop it back in to make your connection. ( you leave the fuse outside of the box so that you can access it to change fuses if need be) I used a 30 amp fuse that can be had from any auto parts store for under 5 bucks.
Solder and tape your connections including the crimp-on hoop connector. Before you pop the top back on the fuse box, reconnect the battery and try it...all should be good.
Don't forget the tape up the other end of the wire that you cut( the end that disappears into the wire loom and back into the cab of the truck)
The 30 amp fuse is big enough to handle the starter circuit and provides some protection if bad sh?t should happen. This took me about an hour.
Or if you really want to get pi??ed off, you can cut the wrap off of the wire loom...try to trace the hot lead into the cab...hopefully find the corroded connector/fuseable link before it enters the cab, because then you get to stand on your head and contort yourself under the dash.
Good luck: Jake
Pop the top off of the fuse box/relay box that the relay sits in...there's 4 tabs you gently open up with a small standard screwdriver. Disconnect the battery before you do this.
Turn the fuse box over gently...there's a whole herd of wires in there so you don't want to inadvertently unplug any of them.
I forget the color coding ( schematics are up in the garage )but looking at the starter relay circuit from the bottom of the fuse/relay panel, you'll be dealing with the top one now. Note: wiring schematics are located in the F.A.Q.s...find them...read them...understand them...kiss whoever posted them. They are absolutely invaluable for this.
In the center of the fuse panel, is the main battery feed to the fuses and relays, which is identifiable by the two large wires bolted to the bottom of the box connected by a common steel tab. Undo one bolt ( 10 mm if I remember correctly )...trace the battery lead from the relay until it disappears into the wire loom. Cut it so that you have enough wire to work with...you're going to put an inline fuse and a hoop connector directly to the battery feed. Run the fuse outside of the fuse box and loop it back in to make your connection. ( you leave the fuse outside of the box so that you can access it to change fuses if need be) I used a 30 amp fuse that can be had from any auto parts store for under 5 bucks.
Solder and tape your connections including the crimp-on hoop connector. Before you pop the top back on the fuse box, reconnect the battery and try it...all should be good.
Don't forget the tape up the other end of the wire that you cut( the end that disappears into the wire loom and back into the cab of the truck)
The 30 amp fuse is big enough to handle the starter circuit and provides some protection if bad sh?t should happen. This took me about an hour.
Or if you really want to get pi??ed off, you can cut the wrap off of the wire loom...try to trace the hot lead into the cab...hopefully find the corroded connector/fuseable link before it enters the cab, because then you get to stand on your head and contort yourself under the dash.
Good luck: Jake
Any more suggestions? I have looked at all possible problems that I can think of and still can't get it to start. I even checked the park nuetral switch wires to see if they were corroded were I converted it from an automatic to manual.
I had a similar problem last summer with my '95 Dak. drove me nuts too. I finally out of just shear frustration replaced the starter. It is a pain - in - A_s. Mine had the original factory unit from 1995. Popped the new on in and no starter problems since. This of course after I did all that you have and replaced a faulty neutral switch. Good Luck.



