Yup I sure have, the pump and filter were both replaced back in november and I took the reading from the fuel rail at that time and I was getting a correct pressure after both were replaced.

I called down to Oreillys (closest place). And the guy I talked to is also a mechanic and he agreed that the IAC is at fault for the idle issues and maybe some of the fuel economy lately. So I will be replacing that this weekend. He said that if I had replaced the speed sensor and the cruise is still acting up that its probably the cable that physically pulls on the throttle to open it. He said it sounded like something got tangled up or is way too tight.

So I will be checking on the throttle cable tonight and replacing the IAC, and have my dad help me find that exhaust leak this weekend. Thanks guys and gals you are all the best!

 

Just in case you don't know, the IAC is the one at the back of the throttle body and it is only 2 torx bolts and one wire harness to replace it... it should take less than 10 minutes!

Also, while your checking the throttle cable, make sure there are no vacuum leaks at the cruise control servo.

 

I think I can handle that. Thanks again everyone. I will post again with my findings.

 

throttle cable from the cruise control looks good. Has just a little slack in it but it didnt bind or buckle when I pulled on it. This cruise control issue is getting to be a real pain. Nobody seems to know why it behaves at high speeds versus low speeds the way it does.

 

if i were you, i would just hack the cruise and just use your foot. ive found my dakota to be rather easy to hold speed with my foot, on the highway. in my opinion, cruise is a useless space filler and its just uneeded weight. thats why im eventually just gunna pull mine

 

Put in the new IAC. Although it has helped it from wanting to die at stops it hasnt cured the problem of it running rough at stops and when you shift it from park to a gear. I took my brother in law with me who is a mechanical engineer, and he feels that the truck not staying on cruise and the truck running rough when shifted out of a neutral gear is related to a vacuum line to the transmission. So we are going to test this idea by disconnecting hte vacuum line to the transfer case and plugging it up. At least try to narrow down where the leak is coming from.

 

Were there vacuum lines on your year going to the transmission/transfer case, cause my truck didn't have any when it was an auto. The only lines were the breather tubes. You should still check out the speed sensor and MAP sensor.

 

Unless i missed it, nobody suggested checking the codes, that's the first thing I would do, it's the cheapest (free). If it's emissions related it will come up in the trouble codes. The speed sensor can cause the vehicle to stall. Case and point, my '95. When the speed sensor went out, I replaced it, well it turns out the speed sensor unit itself wasn't at fault, but it's ground was, broken ground would definitely cause the trouble you're having, my truck would stall all the time before and after replacing the speed sensor unit, that's when I started looking into it's circuit. The notorious splice could also cause stalling as well. There is another splice for the fuel pump relay, same as the Auto Shut Down splice, but on the fuel pump circuit, it can go bad just as much as the ASD splice. Also, '93's had a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail that can cause many many problems, especially if there is a problem with the vacuum as evidenced by the cruise control acting up. The regulator works off vacuum. A couple ideas to look into.

 

one thing i just thought of checking too thats cheap/free, if you do it yourself its free, what you should do, is take the connectors to the computer off, check for corrosion, and even if there is none, clean them.

 

When you're speed sensor was acting up, can do help me out and be specific about all the symtoms? After doing the transmission swap in my truck, I'm now using the speed sensor thats in the new-to-me transfer case. Ever since then, my truck has acted like it wants to stall when I push the clutch in and let the rmps fall to idle. I replaced the IAC twice already (the second one on warrenty of the first one) and it has fixed the problem for a week or two and it keeps coming back. My cruise control does not work either, but I was thinking that could be related to the park/neutral saftey switch being grounded perminantly now. I haven't had time to look into that switch yet, but I'm starting to wonder if there a problem with my new speed sensor. The only reason I would think its fine is because the speedometer works great, and our year trucks don't have the seperate speedometer cable like the '93 and older did.