Axle fluid change for '94 2x4 Dakota
Hi,
My owners manual says GL-5 80W-90 was put in at the factory. It has 120,000 miles on it.
I assume all the Dodge axle fluid is changed the same way according to other posts.
It sounds like I loosen the cover bolts and let drain, take it off, clean, and check for filings or damage. Scrape off the gasket material, put "right stuff" or rtv? sealant on, let set up and put the cover back on. I don't have a torque wrench so I'll have to wing it. Is there just one plug on the back of the cover plate? It says to fill to 1/4" below the lip.
How are we supposed to do that?
I am from Illinois and it can get cold there.
Some say to use only sealant and others use both gasket and sealant.
It sounds like sealant only is the way to go.
Have I got it riht? Thanks.
My owners manual says GL-5 80W-90 was put in at the factory. It has 120,000 miles on it.
I assume all the Dodge axle fluid is changed the same way according to other posts.
It sounds like I loosen the cover bolts and let drain, take it off, clean, and check for filings or damage. Scrape off the gasket material, put "right stuff" or rtv? sealant on, let set up and put the cover back on. I don't have a torque wrench so I'll have to wing it. Is there just one plug on the back of the cover plate? It says to fill to 1/4" below the lip.
How are we supposed to do that?
I am from Illinois and it can get cold there.
Some say to use only sealant and others use both gasket and sealant.
It sounds like sealant only is the way to go.
Have I got it riht? Thanks.
I currently have 100% Lucas oil stabilizer in my rear differential, and it makes no noise and doesn't get very hot at all... I like it!
As for the cover, you will want to put an 1/8 inch bead of black rtv gasket maker on it and put it back on right away!... it should form the gasket before it cures. Don't use too much of it cause it will make a mess if you do. After its back together, wait 15 minutes or so and fill it up. The fluid capacities are in the FAQs section, but I filled mine up to bottom of the fill hole and then put the plug back in.
As for the cover, you will want to put an 1/8 inch bead of black rtv gasket maker on it and put it back on right away!... it should form the gasket before it cures. Don't use too much of it cause it will make a mess if you do. After its back together, wait 15 minutes or so and fill it up. The fluid capacities are in the FAQs section, but I filled mine up to bottom of the fill hole and then put the plug back in.
Yea, you got it right. Just loosen the bolts, let it drain and than remove the cover. Clean the cover and the mating surface on the axle. Also, check inside the axle for any damage/etc and clean in there.
Apply a bead of sealant. Let it setup for a few minutes, and than put the cover on.
I usually add fluid until it's just below the fill hole. That is the only hole on the cover.
I think I used a suction gun to suck the oil out of the bottle and put it into the axle.
I didn't use a gasket, just sealant. If possible, let the axle sit overnight without adding the oil, to allow the sealant to cure. I didn't do this, and never had a problem.
Apply a bead of sealant. Let it setup for a few minutes, and than put the cover on.
I usually add fluid until it's just below the fill hole. That is the only hole on the cover.
I think I used a suction gun to suck the oil out of the bottle and put it into the axle.
I didn't use a gasket, just sealant. If possible, let the axle sit overnight without adding the oil, to allow the sealant to cure. I didn't do this, and never had a problem.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/diff.php
use black rtv
if you have a limited slip, then you also need a bottle of LSD friction modifier.
no worries about adding oil. put tip off bottle, shove into hole, squeeze.
when it begins to run out the hole, stop, its full.
use black rtv
if you have a limited slip, then you also need a bottle of LSD friction modifier.
no worries about adding oil. put tip off bottle, shove into hole, squeeze.
when it begins to run out the hole, stop, its full.
Basically, jack up the back of the truck. Put the transmission in neutral and spin one of the wheels. If the other wheel spins the same direction, you have limited slip.
You can do a Google search on "limited slip" if you want information on what a limited slip differential actually is.
Most synthetics say they don't require a friction modifier for limited slip differantials. Consult the product labeling, and if in doubt, just add it. This can be purchased at the dealership, and maybe your local parts store has it.
You can do a Google search on "limited slip" if you want information on what a limited slip differential actually is.
Most synthetics say they don't require a friction modifier for limited slip differantials. Consult the product labeling, and if in doubt, just add it. This can be purchased at the dealership, and maybe your local parts store has it.
if you have a brass brush or something similar use it on the old gasket on the pan and outside so you dont goudge the metal to make your seal better. use lots of brake clean and get every last bit of grime out the housing. put the rtv on the housing and put pan on to the rtv very evenly so as little as possible gets ino the inside. tighten the bolts back down. if you dont have a torquewrench make sure you get all the old rtv is out of the pan holes. i snapped the last bolt off mine and had to start it all over again. all because the rtv bottomed out the threads. i was pissed. then fill her up it took exactly three bottles of gear oil if you have the 8.25 Chrysler
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You can install a limited slip, but (I promise I'm not trying to insult you) if you need help just changing fluid, you might have a very hard time installing a limited slip differential. It involves a few hours work and job specific tools, and if you don't reset the backlash right you'll rip up your ring and pinion gears. You can get a locker that will fit into your open carrier that doesn't require near as much work and can be done with common tools, but a locker can be rough if its a daily driver and it takes some getting used to.
*Edit* I think I just completely misinterpreted what you are trying to say (I read your post way to fast)...
I thought when I read that you meant you may put a limited slip differential in....When you said "I think I may put some in anyhow" did you actually mean friction modifier? If thats what you meant don't do it! The point of the gear oil is to stop friction, but LSD's have clutches that work off of friction, so they require it.
*Edit* I think I just completely misinterpreted what you are trying to say (I read your post way to fast)...
I thought when I read that you meant you may put a limited slip differential in....When you said "I think I may put some in anyhow" did you actually mean friction modifier? If thats what you meant don't do it! The point of the gear oil is to stop friction, but LSD's have clutches that work off of friction, so they require it.
Last edited by 95_318SLT; Apr 15, 2009 at 12:41 PM.
A previous post said it was ok to add an anti-friction fluid.
I looked at several service manuals at the library and they didn't even mention changing the fluid. It looks pretty easy and straightforward. I can borrow a torque wrench too.
Yes it was just about adding some friction modifier.
I looked at several service manuals at the library and they didn't even mention changing the fluid. It looks pretty easy and straightforward. I can borrow a torque wrench too.
Yes it was just about adding some friction modifier.



