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Big problems, stuck 400 miles from home

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Old May 2, 2009 | 01:31 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 1shotjake
could the sputtering have been a result of the overheating? or does it do that regardless of whether the engine was cold from start or warm?

I what I wonder is if you lost coolant because of a hose somewhere, and the coolant all over and/or the heat from getting so hot may have caused a sensor issue. I know when I was running hot (and lean) because of a bad fuel pump, I melted the wire from the harness to the crank pos. sensor, and then the truck wouldn't start. Could this be the case w/ say the oxy sensor and changing the mixture or something? like 95 said, you would see steam not smoke.

Can you limp it to napa? Someone there might just be nice enough to help you in diagnosis, and maybe w/e work there is (I would offer to help somebody changing their head gasket in the parking lot, 400 miles from home.) I know what its like to be in the middle of know where and no way home. Though, I'd say your lucky its a friday night, had it been saturday night, or sunday, it'd be much worse... NOTHINGS OPEN ON SUNDAYS! lol... I found that out the hard way.
Never ever ever ever ever ever ever..... ever run an engine with a blown head gasket. Not only do you need to worry about water getting in, you also have to worry about air getting in and leaning the motor waaaaay out and likely burn a piston (if they aren't already). And if you burn a piston, you'll be boring the block at least .030 over cause it will scar the cylinder wall. Trust me, there's a reason I got that 360 for so cheap.

And I don't know about NAPA, but there are plenty of autoparts stores in my area that are open on sundays.
 

Last edited by 95_318SLT; May 2, 2009 at 02:04 AM.
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Old May 2, 2009 | 01:34 AM
  #12  
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The sputtering is probably because an engine can't burn water :P

As for replacing a piston, its not hard if the cyl walls took on no damage, but it has to be attacked from the bottom of the engine... so you'd have to tear into it from both sides. *EDIT* It's really late here any I can't think anymore... that was not supposed to sound dirty :P
 

Last edited by 95_318SLT; May 2, 2009 at 01:36 AM.
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Old May 2, 2009 | 01:57 AM
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One thing I should add... I wish I had thought of this sooner...

Don't re-use the heads before taking them to a machine shop or you might be doing this job twice. The chances are very high when you blow a head gasket that you warp the heads, and you'll need to inspect them for cracks, and if they look fine, get them decked ~0.030 of an inch at a machine shop to insure you have a perfectly flat surface to work with. If the heads are warped, you'll just blow the gasket out again if you put enough pressure on them (i.e. getting on the gas pedal really hard)
 
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Old May 3, 2009 | 12:57 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by 95_318SLT
The sputtering is probably because an engine can't burn water :P

As for replacing a piston, its not hard if the cyl walls took on no damage, but it has to be attacked from the bottom of the engine... so you'd have to tear into it from both sides. *EDIT* It's really late here any I can't think anymore... that was not supposed to sound dirty :P
LOL! well it sounds like a head gasket to me, the overflow bottle could be filled up more because sometimes it will blow coolant back into the radiator when they blow. you can pull the plugs and turn the engine over and see if water is shooting out to tell what side. and the sputtering could have been that too because as said earlyer water does not combust or compress. so hopefully it just pushed the gasket out when that happened. the head job is not too hard on these, just leave as much as possible on the intake and pull everyting apart. if you cant get the head to a machine shop at least put it on a piece of glass of flat steel and use a feeler gauge to go around it to see if it warped any. and be sure to inspect them for cracks, some 318 heads have been know to crack under high heat/stress conditions.
 
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Old May 4, 2009 | 04:18 AM
  #15  
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I never actually let it overheat. I caught the needle rising once and shut it off, then let it cool, filled it up with water, and had to start it one more time to do a U turn and get towed with a tow strap. BUT I am home now, what an ordeal.

Honestly, at this point, I am leaning towards doing the V8 swap now to a 318 and I will play around with the V6 engine in there at some point in the future. But we will see how everything works out.

Thanks for saying the head gasket repair isn't that bad. Good to hear.
 

Last edited by dbilik; May 4, 2009 at 04:24 AM.
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Old May 4, 2009 | 07:35 AM
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I have done many head gaskets, so this is my 2 cents.
Pull all the spark plugs (mark correct wiring) do a compression test. You can pick up a gauge at NAPPA. The low readings will be where the gasket is blown. You may even have a cracked head. I have had 3 bad aluminum heads after overheating. I have also had 3 heads that were ok. SO I guess you have a 50/50 chance with the head being ok. Gasket job on one head should be about 3-6 hours depending on your ability. I think this engine uses push rods thus no timing chain to deal with. Good luck
 
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Old May 4, 2009 | 10:11 AM
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3-6 hours? That isn't too bad then. I would consider myself prtty proficient with repairs. I do get stuck sometimes, mostly on bolts and stuff that won't come out easily, the usual things people get stuck on working in your garage without a lift.

This gauge at NAPA, first I have heard of this. I didn't even see this listed in the repair manual I have, granted i still have to read through the Haynes manual also.

Also, have any tips for inspecting for cracks? Will they be obvious? Or is there a chance I could have hairline cracks that are hard or impossible to see with the naked eye?
 

Last edited by dbilik; May 4, 2009 at 10:17 AM.
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Old May 4, 2009 | 12:09 PM
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Well let see i have never done the head gaskets on a dakota but i did do them on my 93 celica which i did not know the condition prior too. Seeing as you just discovered that it may and probably is a blown head gasket i dont for see there being anything wrong with your pistons but dont hold me to that... Also you probably wont need new head bolts depending on they're condition but a new set might be good. Let me know how your repairs go, where in Mn did you limp too?

Thanks
 
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Old May 4, 2009 | 12:11 PM
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p.s you probably wont be able to visually check for cracks i had my head pressure tecsted and surfaced for like $150 dollars.
 
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Old May 4, 2009 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Dakota1089
Also you probably wont need new head bolts depending on they're condition...
I don't believe the condition of the bolts has any bearing on whether or not you need to replace them. Whenever you pull and aluminum head off an engine, the head bolts need to be replaced because they are (stretch bolts) for lack of their proper name. They are designed to expand and contract with the head as it heats up and cools down. Therefore it is highly recommended by the manufacturer that you replace these bolts each time. For the extra $70 or $80, it's worth having piece of mind that you won't have to do the job again and have the heads decked again, because whether or not the engine overheats, once you remove the aluminum heads they should be resurfaced regardless. Not saying this is gospel but that's the way I was taught.
 
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