I am wondering if I don't put the intake manifold in before I reinstall the motor, can I bolt a lift plate to the block via the old intake manifold bolts and large flat washers? I have a tilt bar I would like to use but I am not sure what the best way to lift the magnum engine is. Also have a large Blue Bird engine hoist and a lot of chain.

 

I believe it says on the intake do not pull engine up by intake. It is best to pick it up from the blot holes on the heads in the back and front. It can be tricky in front with the accessory's on, buy take some time and plan it out. Do all 4 corners and it will be stable and easy to pick up.

 

Well, I am stripping the whole thing down so I can leave all the accesories off. Figure it will make it easier to get in there and work anyways. The "blot" holes, you mean the empty threaded holes on the block? Or the heads?

 

The heads.

 

USE THE HEADS EMPTY THREADED HOLES

1 in back 1 in front / postion

but u can put a strap ,yes strap with 4 eyebolt in x pattern 2 in back 2 in front 2 straps hook in middle

that maniflod will pull out it will break they are thin ,so please do the straps chains cause WAY TO MUCH DAMAGE

harbor freight straps 1 ton each lovem plus no paint scratch
IT HAS HAPPENED
the small block FELL crushed the oil pan ,pump timing chain cover bent headers, bent front pulley all trash 200 DOLLAR OIL PAN 150 OIL PUMPAND PICK UP CCHROME PULLEY 50

 

I just did a motor swap and I did it 2 ways.

When I pulled the old one, I had the heads off so I used the 4 outermost head bolts to pull it.

When I put in the replacment motor, I loosened the exhaust manifolds and looped the chain around the center 2 exhaust ports and then back up. tightened bolts and it worked great. Didnt have as much of a "corner to corner" stance as with the head bolts, but I didnt want to remove the head bolts or head on the replacment and the less "corner to corner" gave me more room to "teeter-totter" the motor front to back to get it to line up right.

good luck!