Fuel Gauge Problem
 

I have a 1995 Dakota Sport Cab, 4x4, auto, 3.9, and i have a minor but annoying problem with it, the fuel gauge is broken and wont register any fuel levels at all. i bought this truck from my dad a couple of weeks ago when i turned 16 and mostly everything else works great except for that gauge. i talked to my dad about it and he told me that every time he goes in to fill up the tank, he just resets the trip odometer. he says that he gets about 210 miles per tank (an even mixture of residential, highway, and off-road driving) and when the odo shows 210 he goes in to fill up. Theres no problem with that, but i just find it annoying and if anyone knows how to fix this without me having to buy an new gauge that would be awesome
thanks

It is a tab that gets loose and sometimes corrodes. Check the FAQ in this section for more info on it.

Mine is stuck on full I do the same thing. To fix you have to drop the gas tank and remove the fuel pump where the sending unit is...I am to lazy to fix mine...

It could be that your fuel pump float needs to be adjusted by hand. Sometimes it bends wrong or gets stuck. I had the same exact problem with my fuel gauge, so I pulled my fuel pump and adjusted the float and fuel pump in a different position. Now my fuel gauge is 95% accurate.

P.S your truck should be able to get up too 330 miles with a full tank depending on it's gallon capacity.

Just a warning also if it is a sending unit problem replacing it may not completely fix the problem. The sending unit on mine was bad and when I replaced the fuel pump assembly the gauge still didn't work correctly. My theory is that the gauge has a hang up point around a 1/4 tank since it spent about 5 years on empty. So basically after a fill up it will hang at a 1/4 tank for a day or two before finally heading all the way to full.

Yea, I also have the same exact problem. Seems the Daks suffer from this one issue. I do plan to get it done really soon. I'll let you know how it goes, maybe it'll help you.

Mine is a 22 Gal tank. I get 330 mi give or take. 3.9 V6

I have a similar issue, except mine just jumps around and twitches a lot. Sometimes it seem that it will read accurate, but then it seems to ground out, reading empty. I think its a bad ground somewhere.

mine works perfect from F-3/4 then it bounces around till 1/4 then it goes to empty and gas light randomly comes on. i've driven 260 miles and then re-filled and only took 17 gallons. i'd really rather never run out of gas so i always refill at like 240-260ish

seeing as i have the same problem as most of you i am wondering if its a quick and easy fix. well maybe not super easy but less expensive then actually buying and changing the whole thing out.

First is the gauge just a float ?

and if so could it be just a lot of gunk has accumulated on the float itself?

because my gauge is just stuck under 1/4 tank and it stays there. at one time it actually would become unstuck when i hit a bump in the road and as the lvl went down and got around 1/4 tank it would become stuck again and now its there all the time. so i am thinking of just dropping the tank and cleaning the float? anyone else try this? and might have some insight and save me time if i am wrong? thanx for your help ahead of time :icon_couch:

easier way to access the tank is to take the bed off. I replaced the my fuel pump by dropping the tank but when I put back in it was turned to the side and the float got stuck. Then I said screw that I am not dropping the tank again since it was full so unbolted the bed and moved it back easy peezy.

I have the same problem, so everytime I put some gas to my dakota, I reset the odometer, and I get around 55 miles for every 20 liters. Ive calculated and the gas light randomly comes on when I have around less than 1/8 of tank left.

i am confused with mine i saw somewhere it said we have like 12 or 22 gal. tanks but from totally empty like ran out of gas i can only get 10 gallons in it which averages about 160 mpg which seems crappy for a reg cab short bed v6 truck. O and my gauge only works from above F to half at half i run out totally

Today I ran out of gas. Since I was working and carrying some weight. Thankfully I was very close to my gas station soI just put it on neutral and let it flow, LOL it was very fun.

what size tanks do our trucks come with? mine has a 14 or so gallon tank (never had it close to E so i odnt know exact number) i hate that it has such a small tank i always wondered about puttin a bigger tank in and holy **** our trucks have a gas light!!!???

mine has a 22 or so galons tank.

Ya 22 Gal. is the most common tank but also was 15 Gal. If you need to know a few say the 22 Gal. has a L shaped in the front.

well aint that some **** i just happened to get the odd number car tank

would the 22 gallon swap out into my truck easily??

I would image so. Just take some measurments first.

95 Dekota gas gauge not working at all
 

Mine stays at E all the time. I have heard that it was a sending unit and I have heard that it may be grounding out. I also heard that it can get stuck and need to be adjusted by hand. Before I drop my tank, i would like to hear from others about this issue and how hard it is to do the repair job

Use the search button on the forum. There is tons of people talking about fuel pump replacement. I have info in the FAQ area ( its also in my signature).
I drained the tank and dropped it. Not hard to do as the tanks are not very heavy when empty. Look on the circuit board on the side of the pump to see if the traces are wore out. Also you can test the sending unit without pulling the pump.

Let's make sure we get this straight.

1. Your float can physically be stuck against the side of the tank when the fuel pump was installed/replaced. The gauge will show completely full or empty and never move from its current position. This can easily happen while installing a pump.

2. Your sending unit is going bananas causing the gauge to bounce around and only show correct levels whenever it feels like it. The only thing to do would be to replace the fuel pump unit or try cleaning the exposed variable resistor at the base of the float arm. But I can't imagine anyone doing all the work of dropping the tank without just putting a new pump in.

3. I'm going out on a limb to say that there could be a problem with the gauge in your instrument cluster. Could be but not as likely as the other two explanations.

Maybe it was always that way since your dad bought it, or maybe he had someone replace the pump?

If this problem would fall into category 2, I would save the money to have it replaced. The pump is about to lay an egg. If category 1 describes the behavior, I would say always clear out the trip meter.

fuel gauge and low fuel light
 

so if the gauge stays on e all the time, you're saying that the low fuel light will still come on when it is low? Also, i have heard that it may be a bad ground problem. I was told how to test it. there is a dark blue wire leading to it. cut it, strip the end and find a ground point and rake it across the ground. You will see the gauge slowly rise up toward full, if it is bad ground. Supposedly, Chrysler does opposite of GM and Ford with their wiring system on the fuel level, and it takes ground to activate the level reading. if it doesn't help, it is likely the sending unit in the tank. some times it gets stuck and has to be freed up manually. It isn't a priority on my list, considering I get 19-20 mpg and just keep track of mileage. I go through about 12 gallons in 250 miles, so I just fill it up every 300 miles. I used a total fuel system cleaner in my gas and it really made a difference.

I have seen a truck with the float stuck in the always full position and I have seen one with it stuck in the always empty position. The low fuel light was always on as well.

I have seen one that fell into the category 2 I described ^ and it did need a new pump within a year.

I had a problem with my 95 Dakota gas gauge. At first I thought it was the tank sensor but after changing it, no difference. I took apart the dash and could find nothing wrong. I found some loose grounds and that still didn't fix the problem. So I began to look for electrical problems in the wires. On the 95 Dakota, the brake light has a middle brake light in the tail gate. That electrical connection over time would get caught between the body and the tail gate and crack the outer casing so that the connection became exposed. Every time that I would press the brakes the connection would begin to get hot and melt the wires in the harness that goes to the brake lights. Those wires run through the same harness as the gas gauge. Over time the wires began to melt the coating on all the wires in the harness. So sometime the gas gauge would work and some times not. I found the problem right where the wires for the gas tank leave the harness and head toward the gas tank. I disconnected the rear middle brake light, and then I repaired the wires in the harness and now my gas gauge works fine. Don't know if this is your problem but it's worth a look.

I have a 94 Dakota with this same problem. Recently spent major bucks to have it fixed. Just the other day I returned it to the shop for the third time (4 times in all including original trip). Got some song & dance about how the Dakotas used 2 different tanks... and about how the replacement unit was a little different from the factory unit... etc, etc, etc..... I'm getting tired of this routine but the shop has a 3 year warranty on all work - so I guess I'll keep taking it back until they get it right. And finally, I don't know WHY this seems to be such a hard fix. Seems to me it's just a matter of replacing some parts. And apart from the physical labor - how hard could this be?? I LOVE this little truck, but this is getting exasperating. Oh, BTW - I also have a 93 Dakota with this same problem. Go figure........ FredT

They have a 15 and 22 gallon tank. That doesn't make a difference to the fuel pump which a combined unit with the fluid gauge and sending unit on it. The 22 gallon tank has a lobe off one end from the top half of the tank. There is a problem with the wires and connectors that I saw mentioned many times when I first joined and was looking to fix my fuel gauge. It turned out for me that I had placed the fuel pump in with the float facing the wrong way. Once I turned it so the arm of the float faced forward it works fine. Here is a TSB I found when I was researching it maybe this will help you? It shows two different part numbers for the sending unit. I have the 22 gallon tank and a used pump from a V8 and it works just fine.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/08-33-94.htm

Fuel sending unit float does not float
 

22 gallon tank will fit directly in same spot as 15 gallon tank, takes same tank straps even, and same pump unit for either. been there done that,

1994 Dodge Sport Dakota Gas Gauge Issues Again
 

I had the gauge issue. Anyway my problem was that the float arm was pointed in the wrong direction and hitting the side of the tank stopping movement. It should extend toward the front of the truck.
Otherwise there is a thread on the FAQ page that shows a guy took out his pump and repaired the sending unit the float arm attaches to. Or you can put in a new or used pump you know worked.

No calibration....its a simple wiper POT that varies resistance to the gauge. With that said, however, the POT needs to be the same resistance range as the original to work with your gauge.

95 dakota 3.9 Reads E after new pump assembly
 

Just had the entire assembly replaced. The tank has been dropped twice this week, so it is not the float. I am positive it is in my cluster, but can not find any good forums for that repair. Please help!

In the FAQ here, you can find the factory service manual as a PDF download.

Download that, unzip the ZIP file, and do the troubleshooting steps that are in that.

RwP

Two suggestions if the diagnosis Raplh suggests does not work https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...gas-gauge.html
And a TSB also haveing to do with the sending unit. IDk what year yours is but it applies to 91-94 dak http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/08-33-94.htm

Also this https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-friendly.html

You can lift the bed instead of dropping the tank. It's 8 bolts, disconnect the fill tube on one end of the rubber connector, unplugging a couple wires near the bumper, and the spare tire escutcheon.

entire fuel pump assembly is new.
 

Had a mechanic drop the tank and replace the entire assembly. I have the original manual and I know it is in the cluster. I need help working on the cluster itself.

Haha cluster. Truly a fitting description of that mess for people with my level of experience

Cluster's easy. Using the voltmeter, a) make sure that the gas gauge is getting power; b) check the resistance to ground of the sensor line. If b) is open, it's the wiring between the pump and the gauge; I personally would bet on that before I bet on the gauge. But that's what the testing's for.

RwP

Yeah what Ralph said....the cluster can't hardly go bad, but good spot to check your sender. There are two signals that come directly from the sending unit to the cluster. No pcm involved. It does go through the rear harness connector by the driver side fender and then the bulkhead connector into the cab. One signal is the ground signal to the empty lamp. One side of that lamp always has 12vdc from the cluster bus. The other side of lamp gets a ground from the sending unit when the contact on the bottom of the wiper is made. If the lamp is always on either your float i's stuck down or the wire is shorted to ground. As for the gauge the wiper in the fuel sending unit is a simple voltage divider using varying resistance. You should see a change in voltage at the gauge between 0 and 12vdc depending on the float position. You can measure the voltage or resistance with your meter to check.

Rear harness
 

If we are talking about my trailer light harness...That is cut and hanging down. Possibly where the issue is.

No, the rear harness connector (there's two) are the grey and black connectors near the fenderwell inside the engine bay on the drivers side. They snake down the fender then follow the frame back. They cover the harness for the rear lights, abs, and fuel pump and sender. The trailer harness you speak of is usually just spliced onto the rear lights and shouldn't affect the fuel sending unit.