I agree with PA. It seems like you said that it runs fine when its not in gear, so that leaves me to believe your tranny may be the issue. Did you put in a new torque converter?

 

Salvage Trans, Torque Converter is new. Truck slips here n there and its down alot of power.

I have luke warm air being blown into the car, radiator gets hot, its been bleed, the hoses are both cold my guess is ill have to replace the heater core..

Radio stoped working to..

I have an annoying ticking noise with the truck at idle , i was told that their was a mechanical flaw design with the dakotas with the timing chain rubbing. This guy told me their is a shim kit to buy? Anybody?

 

You should try a backflush on the system before replacing the heater core. Those are a pain to replace.

Check the 5 amp fuse in the PDC for the radio.

What octane gas are you using. Is this ticking noise spark knock? Have you tried moving up a grade gas to see if it goes away? Have you checked the plenum gasket to see if its leaking? A leaking plenum gasket can cause spark knock and loss of power. Or is this ticking not spark knock and more of a lifter/rocker problem? Maybe the valve covers need to be taken off and the the valve lash adjusted!?

Who told you that about the timing chain? Did you read it somewhere, did a mechanic say something? I've never heard that before. If the timing chain is stretched, get a new one and maybe put a tensioner on it too.

 

a local guy who has worked for scranton dodge for 20 years... about the timing chain.. I def could use a timing chain. the motor has 116,000 and it has not been replaced..

im going to try the flush first, your right the heater core is a bitch! this will be the 3rd time it will be flushed..

i checked the fuse, i keep blowing them, everytime i go over a bounce it blows the fuse.. i believe i have a wire somewhere exposed

 

flushed the heater core about 4 times and finally got heat... woo hoo!!!

 

You bought a salvaged trans? Was the other truck in a wreck or something? And did you take the transmission to a shop to have it tested and have the bands adjusted before you installed it?

 

For that 5AMP fuse, power from that fuse goes to: Radio, Glove Box Lamp, Overhead Console, Power Mirror Switch, Dome Lamp, Underhood Lamp. (Also to the Time Delay Relay, and Data Link Connector [OBDII connector])

Try the following: In the following steps, you will be looking for up or downshifts happening, availability of power, and quality of shifts.
Start your truck.
Press the "O/D OFF" button to disable over-drive (light above the button should come on)
Shift into MANUAL GEAR 1. ("1"). Accelerate and note how that goes.
As you reach an appropriate RPM/speed, shift into MANUAL GEAR 2 ("2"). Keep your foot on the gas and note how that goes.
As you reach an appropriate RPM/speed, shift into DRIVE ("D"). Keep your foot on the gas and note how that goes.
Come to a complete stop.
With the transmission still in DRIVE, accelerate. Note how that goes. When your speed reaches about 40-45MPH (or above), press the "O/D OFF" button to enable overdrive. Take note of RPM gauge (or engine sound), to see if it shifts into overdrive.
Press "O/D OFF" button again to disable overdrive. Verify overdrive disengages.

In the following steps, use common sense when down shifting into the lower gear!!
With vehicle still in motion, at a reasonable speed for 2nd gear, downshift from DRIVE to MANUAL 2nd.
At a reasonable speed for 1st gear (pretty darn slow), downshift from MANUAL 2nd to MANUAL 1st.

Post back with findings.