So, I was putting on my driver side caliper yesterday, and I kinda missed the step where it says, "make sure to finger start the guide pin, so as NOT to cross thread it."

I went to NAPA and got an oversized guide pin (one of two, which thread into the steering knuckle), which was $20!
Anyways, I have two questions:
1) Has anyone used an oversized caliper guide pin before, and how was it? The new one is a self-tapping setup, I'm kinda/sorta worried about what would happen if this doesn't work?

2) Would I just be better off trying to fix the threads with a helicoil? I also couldn't quite find a good size thread on the original pin, but a 3/8-16 (I think it was at least) was the right diameter, but didn't seem to be the right thread count. (At the store, no metric size really fit.)
I'm at work right now, but I'll be going home and try fitting a spare original size guide pin into a 3/8-16 (or whatever) size nut, and see which gets screwed up first, haha.

Other than that, truck is coming along good. Ordered some rear brake hardware from NAPA, be in in the morning. Need to order some shocks, run the hard brake line, and she's pretty much ready. Need to replace a front wheel stud, it sheared off, and is being a pain to get out of the hub.

 

OH NO!!! You're having quite a time with that thing James! Quit letting that truck kick your a$$ :P

I don't know anything about the oversized self tapping guide pins, but I do know that helicoils are a very good product. When I was doing my transmission swap I had to use helicoils on the pressure plate bolt holes in the flywheel and they are STRONG.

 

Just weld the pin in and you don't have to worry about it. JK let us know how it goes.

 

I know, I know. I've been letting this truck kick my rear for quite sometime.
I'll let you guys know how the oversized caliper pin works.
For the regular caliper pin, the thread seems to be 3/8-20, which is, well, uncommon. (3/8-16 being common hardware, and 3/8-24 being the fine thread version)

I need to replace the wheel stud, but am having a problem trying to fit the new one in (old one was sheared off flat with the hub, so it was real short, so no problem getting out). I'm just not seeing how to fit the new stud in, doesn't seem to be enough room.

If it's not one thing, it's another. Oh well, I mess with it a little every night.

 

I used the oversized pin on mine, just make sure you torque it to what's recommended or you'll end up stripping it out and then you'll really have a problem.

 

Replacing wheel studs is the bane of my existence because they always break on me during the coldest part of the year. I have only owned one car that I did Not have to pull the hub off to press the stud in. I think that was my 1990 Cavalier, all the rest I had to pull the wheel hub. Let me know if you're able to do it without pulling the hub cause, I've been runnin' with five lugs on my driver front for many months cause I dread pulling the hub.

 

Usually you can get it tilted just right to get it in without removing the hub. Takes some time and fanagalin.