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idler and pitman arm

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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 01:29 PM
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Default idler and pitman arm

Hello all. I was just wondering if you could tell me if I replaced the idler and pitman arm myself, would I need to get the truck aligned? I wouldnt think so but just thought I would check.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 01:38 PM
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I am looking at replacing the steering components as I replaced all four ball joints and the front tires still seem to be cupping on the outside. When I had the truck aligned at the same time as having the ball joints replaced the tech said there was no problem with the truck taking an alignment. I.E. everything seemed tight and correct. But still the tires continue to cup.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 01:41 PM
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For the Idler Arm it is a no. But for the pitman arm it is a maybe. I got one that was slightly clocked off. So if yours installs exactly in place, then your okay. If you have to shift the system, even just slightly, you will need an aliment.

I believe shocks can also cause cupping.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 01:47 PM
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shocks- now thats something I never would have thought of. I replaced mine about a year or two ago to the gabriel ultras. Is it such a thing that they are too strong or too weak to cause cupping?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 02:28 PM
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ask if the mechanic did a upper a-arm adjustment. most people don't even know that exists. that sounds like a tie-rod replacement or adjustment. if you replace the idler arm, replace the pitman arm also. they tend to go bad one after the other.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 12:45 AM
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I will say that all the bushings on the a-arm look like they all need to be replaced as they are all very weathered and cracked. I am going to try and replace just the tie rods first due to budget crunches. Then later the idler and pitman arm.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 01:15 PM
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the outside of the a-arm bushings on daks always look cracked and worn. it's the inside that matters. the only way i found to check them is a complete teardown. if you pull down on the upper arm and it springs back up your ok. if it does not there screwed. i cut the lip off the bushings and replaced it with a bushing i made from a hockey puck. 2 years and counting for them. .99 a peice at canadian tire. i got budget problems too.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 11:28 AM
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Before spending any more money on parts that may or may not fix this issue. I am asking you guys for any suggestions that you may have on this. I just checked the tie rods using the wheel movement method and everything seems very solid. I cant detect any abnormal movement in the front end. Shocks were mentioned but I replaced the factory shocks with gabriel ultras about 2 years ago. So unless those shocks are too weak I cant see that as being an issue.

Does anybody else have any ideas on what would be causing the cupping?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 11:49 AM
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Well shocks are easy to test. Unbolt and push in. See if the retract and with good enough speed and strength. Here is the chart. See what looks like yours. Scalloped and bald spots is cupping. If you want to see more details and more diagnostic check the service manual we got in the FAQ.

 

Last edited by Crazy4x4RT; Jan 12, 2010 at 12:04 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 11:49 AM
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I agree could be shocks. 2 years may not sound like much, but I've seen them go out quicker than that before. There is only 1 bolt and 1 nut per shock to remove them! May as well take the few minutes to take them out and check them.
 
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