Yes, cams are by far one of the, if not the, best power adder for an engine. But the magnum engines use hydraulic roller lifter cams, which will cost over $300, and you also need a new valve springs. And who replaces valve springs without also replacing seals, etc. So by the time its all said and done, you're talking over $500 in parts and you still have a factory computer, which will get confused by most cams (read the warnings... almost any cam says requires a computer upgrade).

My point is, I would start with a new computer and go from there. You may not see the gains right away, but you'll need that computer if you want to maximize the gains from everything else you put on. Like I said, pick a direction you want to go as far as a performance build, do research, and start buying parts. If you aren't willing to open your wallet, don't even start.

 

Yep, I've had many discussions on this sorta stuff with my cousin and he works R/D for JESEL. And says that with all these aftermarket power adders they sell now a days. They will do very little to increase horsepower effectively without going inside the engine itself and doing all the upgrades. But having the computer tuned to your specific engine is well worth the investment. The OEM and preprogrammed computers are programmed with a baseline in increased horse power. But nothing beats knowing exactly what the individual engine is doing and programming it from there. But with OEM internals, You won't see much increase.

He is currently working partnership to get 700+hp out of 2.5L engines using pump gas. (No turbos, No blowers, nada) He said that working with nascar was a pain in the ***** when they wanted to go to unleaded fuels for their engines. Their valve spring rate packages have to be perfect come inspection time.

So with that being said, stick with stock and just help the engine breath better and go down the road with the DD.

I think I worded the top right.

 

hmmm....there will be no path. i was just hoping to get some better fuel mileage for pulling my car...

Guess im back to my next thought process... 7.3L F350....

 

I assume you mean dry nitrous?

 

If I'm wrong, please correct me. I've never done much research into running nitrous, but it seems to me like if it gets thrown into the mix, it will throw off the A/F ratio the computer is reading, and I can't see an early '90s factory computer understanding what to do when nitrous is being used. The computer only knows one way to compensate air changes... changing the amount of fuel being dumped into the engine. I wouldn't think youd see the same gains from nitrous oxide when the computer sees a lot more oxygen and runs the engine extremly rich trying to fight the nitrous than if the computer tunes the engine to work with the nitrous.

 

i know a lot about nitrous, and tuning the efi on my bike with a data logging system.

basically there are 2 ways to use nitrous. dry or wet. i have expirience with both.

dry means you spray just nitrous into the motor. on smaller sized shots this is usually done into the air intake(like into the cold air intake). the computer sees the cooler air and extra oxygen and adds extra fuel(the computer think we just left texas and ended up in iceland with really cold dense air). this is only ok for small stuff though. on bigger stuff you usually have a direct port setup, meaning each intake runner gets its own nozzle. when nitrous is activated you have it setup so the fuel system adds the correct amount of fuel, usually with an aftermarket computer, or secondary set of injectors.
wet means you spray fuel and nitrous. the efi just continues to work as if nothing is going on. a lot of wet systems have their own fuel pump ect. the most basic setup is the nitrous plate that sits under the carb or TB. if you want serious power, the most common setup is the NOS fogger system. each intake runner gets its own fogger nozzel that sprays nitrous and fuel.

a properly setup nitrous system will not cause any erratic afr readings.

 

I ran nitrous on my truck once. It did increase power. I did it once at the track. My friend had a simple line setup on it. I just unplugged a vacuum line and put the nitrous hose to it. Not so great, but just for fun on a quick run.

 

Ok, nevermind. I had a brain fart there. It wouldn't run rich, the extra power comes from the increase in fuel and air in the proper ratio. Duh.

But I still assume you need a tune that can read a really wide A/F range for a big shot of nitrous though.

 

single jet?