Good luck with it, anxious to hear how you make out.

 

Sorry for no Photos yet, here is the up date. Frustration and a dent on the hood as I have been beating my head on it!!!!!
Tore apart the wire loom AGAIN, and cut, re-sodered the three way Red connection and just fluxed and sodered the ground connections that I could find. The Positive Red connection was about 8 inches from the relay box if that is the connection that people have been talking about. Ohmed out the wires that I could expose, end to end and no open connections found. And still no spark.
I am going to now do the REAL slow wire troubleshooting and checking power.
I pulled a troubleshooting repair off of AutoZone.com and have built the ground jumper cable using the .33mf capacitor that it calls out for. Has anyone ever used that? Its a little confusing on how it is written.
The thing that I am stumped at is that all this guy did was basically replace a battery that was dead, and now nothing.
Also, anyone know how to check the Crankshaft Position sensor that is in the distribitutor? Three wires? Book is showing 8 volts going into the the #1 pin, #3 pin going bact to the PCM, and the #2 going back to go with the Crankshaft Positon Sensor that is on the Transmission. (Which, we put a new one in)

 

Been working on this thing a hour or so a night trying to figure it out, tonight we hit the jack pot. We are 99% sure that it is the PCM. I have tore apart all of my nice wiring AGAIN, and this time ohmed out the wires with no power telling me if we did have a high or low resisdance for each wire. All the wires checked out. Talking it over with Jerry, the owner, one thing this truck has NOT done was give a Check Engine Light. Was surfing the net and typed in NO Check Engine light. Thats when I found a thread that explained that if you have no spark and the bulb for the check engine light does work, but it does not come on, this is basically saying that the PCM is NOT recieving power. Jerry was telling me that when he would drive it for about 3 or 4 hours, the TACH would basically stop working, when it cooled down after awhile it would start working again.
So we did some more digging. Power wire going into the PCM was showing 12 Volts DC, the #7 wire that goes out to the cam and crankshaft pickups that send the signal back to the PCM that allows the Coil to fire.
So, I jumped a 12 volt wire to the OUT side of the #7 wire and turned the key and the Truck jumped to life.
Hitting the junk yards next week after work and finding another one.
Have found out that these PCMs can LOCK UP and not provide the spark if a ground happens, short, etc.

 

FINALLY DONE!!!!! PCM was bad. So lessons learned to help those who may have this issue.
1) Check Engine light. If the truck does NOT have this light on when you first put the key in and turn it on, not cranking and you do not see this light, then this should be your first clue. That is if you are sure the light is not burnt out. Reason is that this light if your indication that the PCM is not only recieving power, but it is also putting out the power to the other items. As in the Crank Shaft sensor, or the Cam shaft sensor.
2) Check the power going out on the #7 output wire should have at least 7volts going OUT, this power is 7 to 8 volts and the easy way is to cut a paperclip and shove it on the back side and with the power on see what the PCM is putting out. Mine had only 1.5 volts coming out. Basically the PCM was locked up. With the paper clip in the back side and then using another jumper to provide 12volts, the truck started.

We orederd a replacement from the net that was $170.00 with a lifetime on it, plus they matched it with the VIN from the truck. (Critical issue there)

Hope this helps anyone else who might be dealing with this issue.

Dickrer

 

not as much as you may think on 92-95 models.... 96 and up yes.

 

Thank you for saving us hours of sensor proving and continuity testing. That splice was green and yes, it was broken. Saved me hours of headache. Thanks

 

i dont know every thing about chrysler cars/truck. BUT i do know this. the chrysler dist cap, has a vent between the center tower and outside row of towers. PLUG IT with JB-weld. took me 5 years to figure this out. been doing that for 3-4 years no trouble.

 

Thanks moe7404 for the info, will try that.

 

Hello.....I have,a 1992 dodge dakota 3.9l and driving it it ran like crap......I had to floor it to get it to move.....I fixed that problem by taking the big connector off of the ecm and cleaned every pin and hole......now it started just stop running when I drove it and I let it sit about 5 minutes and it starts......brand new accel coil, tried a remanufactured ecm but that made it worse so I am back to the original ecm and it starts and goes sometimes. ...sometimes it starts for a few seconds and then stalls......I have checked the plug on the coil and there is nothing with the key turned over on either wire....the green and orange light up when it's turning over but nothing on the other,then when running the darker one pulses....any ideas?