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Consensus on Fuel Pump replacement - drop tank or lift bed?

Old Jul 24, 2010 | 03:54 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 16Victor
http://home.fuse.net/pieper/2010-07-24%2008.55.46.jpg

Thanks for the replies, lifted the bed, job done in 90 minutes, decided to do rear shocks at the same time, too easy with the bed off.

Thanks again,

Ron
I did the same thing with mine off. TOO easy to do the rear shocks with the bed off :-D

Plus the parts wernt that much.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by kahanabob
what did you do with the filler tube? does it just remain sticking up in the position it was attched to the filler door?
The fill neck is attached to the gas tank. It just stays there and hangs out.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2010 | 09:51 AM
  #13  
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Yep, just be careful with lifting and moving the bed around the filler neck.

A few other observations:
- remove the tailgate to make it easier to lift the bed
- put tape over the lower rear corners of the bed to avoid scraping paint if the bed contacts the bumper during removal/installation (one side of our bumper had been tweaked making interference worse).
- brush or vacuum the dirt and crud from the top of the tank to avoid dirt falling into it
- wire brush and oil the bed bolts before reinstalling, and don't tighten any of them down until they're all loosely installed
- On our replacement pump, there was no vent port, we had to remove it from the old pump. Separate the old pump halves, put a broomstick under the vent, and gently but firmly press the pump body down onto the broomstick. The vent will pop out. Remove the gasket, install onto new pump, then push the vent into the gasket. Do this after the new pump is in place, and after you put the screw ring on. It will become clear when you do it.

See item circled in red in this pic: http://home.fuse.net/pieper/2010-07-24%2008.34.21.jpg

- think about a muffler replacement too, while the bed is off. Wish we had the luxury of time to do this.
- I really wanted to attack certain frame and other parts with a wire brush and Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer but ran out of time.

Good Luck,

Ron
 
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Old Jul 25, 2010 | 11:32 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by 16Victor
Yep, just be careful with lifting and moving the bed around the filler neck.

A few other observations:
- remove the tailgate to make it easier to lift the bed
- put tape over the lower rear corners of the bed to avoid scraping paint if the bed contacts the bumper during removal/installation (one side of our bumper had been tweaked making interference worse).
- brush or vacuum the dirt and crud from the top of the tank to avoid dirt falling into it
- wire brush and oil the bed bolts before reinstalling, and don't tighten any of them down until they're all loosely installed
- On our replacement pump, there was no vent port, we had to remove it from the old pump. Separate the old pump halves, put a broomstick under the vent, and gently but firmly press the pump body down onto the broomstick. The vent will pop out. Remove the gasket, install onto new pump, then push the vent into the gasket. Do this after the new pump is in place, and after you put the screw ring on. It will become clear when you do it.

See item circled in red in this pic: http://home.fuse.net/pieper/2010-07-24%2008.34.21.jpg

- think about a muffler replacement too, while the bed is off. Wish we had the luxury of time to do this.
- I really wanted to attack certain frame and other parts with a wire brush and Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer but ran out of time.

Good Luck,

Ron
Good points!

Here are a few more.
Disconnect the tail light wires.
Unscrew the filler neck screws and gas cap.
Sit the bed on top of something, like saw horses. The fenders can't support it.
Don't tighten the body bolts until you lined up the bed with the body and bumper.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2010 | 02:22 PM
  #15  
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Is it obvious which way to turn the ring that keeps the pump in? what do you do hammer and screwdriver like removing a garbage disposal? Need to address my inop gas gauge once and for all. Hope i can clean it due sending units for a 90 are unavailabe.
Good tip on the muffler mine needs one>>..
 
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Old Jul 25, 2010 | 03:09 PM
  #16  
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Clockwise tightens, counterclockwise loosens...use a wooden dowel on the retainer ring and loosen it with a mallet...hammer and metal screwdriver can break the plastic.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2010 | 03:25 PM
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when i did mine i took the bed off and was done in about an hour.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 05:45 PM
  #18  
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I did it 4x in my first truck and now in this one. I did both drop tank and lift bed. I cheated and used 8in metal hole saw, marked out pump location and drilled hole CAREFULLY, trimmed with snips, made new bigger patch and screwed in like hatch. Took total with changing pump less than 45 mins. Yes I also have removeable bed liner to cover slight bump from hole
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 06:17 PM
  #19  
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Now that's a smart solution...any chance you can post a pix?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 06:39 PM
  #20  
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ive seen other people do that but if you are in a northern part of the country it isn't a good idea for rust sake
 
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