This thing is turning in to a money pit. I just had to have my front diff rebuilt because the people I was going to never checked it and it ran dry. So my suspension will not be rebuilt with those funds.

Now I am getting water in my crankcase. I just had the heads checked for leakage, not leaking, and the water pump changed so I am guessing the intake manifold is leaking.

I am thinking of buying a second manifold and doing the mods to it and installing it as mentioned in the FAQ. Has there been good luck with the mods? I was looking and there did not seem to be much feedback on it.

I would like to get the whole engine done but the quote is anywhere from $3,800 to $4,800. It goes way up when they find out it is a manual and a 4wd.

 

At this poing I think I would try bars leak so you arent sittin still. Also change oil & filter cause water has about as much lub capacity as Yack Urine. 10 bucks more for a can of engine restore to help protect the bearings.

 

The intake mods like the Kegger mod is kinda worth it with porting the runners to match the gaskets. In stock forum you wont notice much improved HP. But just knowing your intake is ready for a larger TB and other performance upgrades makes it worth it.

Don't forget to replace the plenum gasket and bypass hose. This would be a perfect time to add in a intake plenum to fix the notorious plenum problem forever. www.hughesengines.com

 

i wouldn't use stop leak unless you just have to. if it can stop a leak it can (and does quite often) stop up the heater core and rad. sometimes you can't get it out of there either. if you think it's your intake jump all over it and get it done asap. like 89 sais you will lose your bearing protection with water in the oil. if you just want to get it running you can rip out the intake and slap it back in (with updated plenum gasket and even the new pan if you want) in around 3 hours. all i used was a 3/8 impact (set on med and it's one i use only for engine work so unless your very used to it don't use it for this) the appropriate sockets and a fuel line disconnect tool. two cans of brake cleaner the new intake gaskets, a gallon of coolant (i didn't do an oil change since i wasn't near due for one and i didn't get anything into the engine) i also just got the updated plenum pan gasket (it's layerd steel) and used axle sealer (grey rtv) on both sides of the new gasket. it's been 10k so far with no issues in sight. i didn't mod my intake because i plan to get the nice m1 intake for it later.

if you do this and still have water in your oil then you can bite the bullet and plan on head gaskets. i doubt that will be the outcome though. our lil 318's aren't known for blowing head gaskets unlike the 4.7's.

god i love an iron engine.

 

Thanks. I think I will get a new plenum and have it machined and then do the custom work.

These things are not cheap to work on.

 

go on summits web site. they have the ones im refering to. all you gotta do is bolt it on.

 

What part? Intake manifold? There were four listed but all were performance, 4 barrel and for carburation.

 

how about this one. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-5007790/
that's for mpi

 

that looks like a better way than a modding a factory. Not to much more either.

All my factory parts will bolt on? Will I need anything else? It lists a parts kit, Parts Kit, is that necessary?

 

it looks like everything should. the magnum v8's stayed about the same for 5.2/5.9 . i would reccomend the kit (other wise you need to scavenge parts from the old intake. you can specify when you order if you need egr ports or not. be aware that myne had the pipe and block off plate but no valve and when i pulled it apart the intake ports wern't drilled open at the factory.