Dana 44 Solid Axle Swap. Tons of pics. Discussion thread
This is the discussion thread. I will lock the Build thread to keep all the posts in order. So this one can be talked about and take comments or suggestions.
Here is the Build thread of the swap. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ml#post2433694
I didn’t notice till now the front tires hit the leaf springs while turning. I got my rims yesterday so I didn’t get to try test the tires/rims till now to check for clearances before mounting it all up. I wanted 2.5 backspacing on my new rims but those are custom made at request. So they would have taken a month to be made plus shipping. So I went with 3.75 backspacing. The tires are mounted now so there is no return. So my next option is to buy some 2in wheel spacers/adapters for the front, to ultimately give me a smaller backspacing on the rims. Which hopefully will clear enough on the turns. What sucks is by looks the tires now are EXACTLY the same place where stock was, tucked under the fender and not sticking out more that stock. That is the exact reason I got that axle to keep it stock looking. Now the spacers will though out that look. Oh well!
If the spacers are not enough the next option is a complete rebuild of the suspension. My biggest hurdle is the front Giant crossmember, I can’t move the leaf spring bracket in more or else the leaf spring will hit it on some compressions. I rather not cut off that crossmember but if I have to I will and just weld in a replacement out of the way.
The other hurdle is the axle itself, on the driver side right before the tube starts there is extension of the case. It is a mount for the original leaf spring to mount up on from the bottom of the case. (You can see it in the pictures.) Which leaves no room to move over the leaf spring, since I am mounting the leaf springs on top and on the tube. I can’t mount the leaf springs on top of that mount.
So we will see if it all will change in the near future. I may try to raise up the front leaf spring bolt. Maybe that will lower the truck a bit so it won’t be overly tall. The pictures don’t do it justice, its taller than it looks.
As for the pitman arm I bought a Jeep TJ drop pitman arm. (I got it from your write up Brian.) I preordered it just in case I need it. $30 Ebay. If I don’t need it I can sell it. I may try to drill out the hole to accept the GW tie rod. I will try to place the rest of the stock GW steering together to see if I get lucky and it will work. Or if Custom pieces will be needed.
Yes if you can measure so I could get a rough idea where it may be at. Measure from the middle of the frame to the spring bolt. By memory the stock shackle starts at least in the middle of the frame.
Here is the Build thread of the swap. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ml#post2433694
I didn’t notice till now the front tires hit the leaf springs while turning. I got my rims yesterday so I didn’t get to try test the tires/rims till now to check for clearances before mounting it all up. I wanted 2.5 backspacing on my new rims but those are custom made at request. So they would have taken a month to be made plus shipping. So I went with 3.75 backspacing. The tires are mounted now so there is no return. So my next option is to buy some 2in wheel spacers/adapters for the front, to ultimately give me a smaller backspacing on the rims. Which hopefully will clear enough on the turns. What sucks is by looks the tires now are EXACTLY the same place where stock was, tucked under the fender and not sticking out more that stock. That is the exact reason I got that axle to keep it stock looking. Now the spacers will though out that look. Oh well!
If the spacers are not enough the next option is a complete rebuild of the suspension. My biggest hurdle is the front Giant crossmember, I can’t move the leaf spring bracket in more or else the leaf spring will hit it on some compressions. I rather not cut off that crossmember but if I have to I will and just weld in a replacement out of the way.
The other hurdle is the axle itself, on the driver side right before the tube starts there is extension of the case. It is a mount for the original leaf spring to mount up on from the bottom of the case. (You can see it in the pictures.) Which leaves no room to move over the leaf spring, since I am mounting the leaf springs on top and on the tube. I can’t mount the leaf springs on top of that mount.
So we will see if it all will change in the near future. I may try to raise up the front leaf spring bolt. Maybe that will lower the truck a bit so it won’t be overly tall. The pictures don’t do it justice, its taller than it looks.
As for the pitman arm I bought a Jeep TJ drop pitman arm. (I got it from your write up Brian.) I preordered it just in case I need it. $30 Ebay. If I don’t need it I can sell it. I may try to drill out the hole to accept the GW tie rod. I will try to place the rest of the stock GW steering together to see if I get lucky and it will work. Or if Custom pieces will be needed.
Yes if you can measure so I could get a rough idea where it may be at. Measure from the middle of the frame to the spring bolt. By memory the stock shackle starts at least in the middle of the frame.
Last edited by Crazy4x4RT; Mar 12, 2011 at 02:45 AM.
Alright, with the leaf spring hardware I used, I couldn't really get an accurate measurement off the spring bolt, so I measured from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame rail and its 16.5 inches.
Cool Thanks. I'm at 11.5in. So with my lift springs and the flip and the longer shackles I should get it matched. I think you got the adjustable shackles, I think I'll order some of those.
I found 1 guy that can weld it up for $45 per hour and 1- 2 hours of work. Not to bad. I just need to get the rear crossmember ready to be welded, and add in some gussets for the rear mounts.
I did the brakes today. Very simple. Just use Dakota lines to the calipers. I just had to open up the banjo bolt hole and bend the line to clear the springs on turns. Came out nice. Pics will be up later.
The spacers should be in tomorrow, hopefully everything will clear.
The steering looks like it will be perfect. I just roughly lined things up.
I found 1 guy that can weld it up for $45 per hour and 1- 2 hours of work. Not to bad. I just need to get the rear crossmember ready to be welded, and add in some gussets for the rear mounts.
I did the brakes today. Very simple. Just use Dakota lines to the calipers. I just had to open up the banjo bolt hole and bend the line to clear the springs on turns. Came out nice. Pics will be up later.
The spacers should be in tomorrow, hopefully everything will clear.
The steering looks like it will be perfect. I just roughly lined things up.
hey crazy i was wondering if i want to do this swap for the front with no body lift will it lift it to about where you had yours lifted to before. because i want to lift my truck like 2-3 inches in the front and like 3 inches solid in the back
but i want to do this swap for sure but i dont want it to lift the front to much like too much that i cant compensate in the back and i only want like 33 or 35 inch tires
thanks guys
but i want to do this swap for sure but i dont want it to lift the front to much like too much that i cant compensate in the back and i only want like 33 or 35 inch tires
thanks guys
hey crazy i was wondering if i want to do this swap for the front with no body lift will it lift it to about where you had yours lifted to before. because i want to lift my truck like 2-3 inches in the front and like 3 inches solid in the back
but i want to do this swap for sure but i dont want it to lift the front to much like too much that i cant compensate in the back and i only want like 33 or 35 inch tires
thanks guys
but i want to do this swap for sure but i dont want it to lift the front to much like too much that i cant compensate in the back and i only want like 33 or 35 inch tires
thanks guys
The ones I got convert the Dakota 6x4.5 to 6x5.5. These ones are 1.25in thick. For me they will be used only when I need the spare tire. I don't think I have ever used the spare tire to say the truth. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_3775wt_939
As an update I had to redo all the front to clear the turning radius. I will post up pics when done with the new setup.
ouch...that must have hurt tearing apart all your hard work...atleast you know its right this time...
That is the reason I didn't get a full size axle, the Jeep Grand Wagoneer axle is exactly the same width. So I could keep the wheels/tires under the fenders. So if I couldn't have it the way I want why do the swap.
So I decided to make it right. My biggest hurdle was that I didn't want to cut off the front GIANT crossmember under the radiator. But I have no choice, so I made my front hitch the new crossmemeber. Once I get it fully welded and gusseted up then I will cut off the factory crossmember. Then I could sit it on the springs in its final location.



