ok i got my truck done finally! well apperantly not. i thought it was done so i sold my car that i was driving daily, to drive drive my truck. well i am getting around 10.5 mls to the gallon! i have already done the k&n, tune up, true dual exhaust, and it runs strong. but sence the lift and 33,s my gas milage has dropped consedeably! i know the od will be off, i have factered that into my milage equation, it is 10.5 miles to the gallon! i guess i am going to have to lick my calf over and pull the truck back into the shop. i have decided what i want to do, i just dont know exactly how to achive it. ill prolly do the electric fan, no problems there. axle swap to the 9.25 or 9.5 what ever it is i seen on facts page, with a gear reduction to 390 or 410. will also do the 360 bottem end, and the performance computer. i mud race this truck on the weekend, and i run street stock class. this is were some of the problems arise. the other problems arise simply because of budget.
first my gear reduction i know it would be easier to find my new axle with the gears i want, problem is 390 or lower is rare in the dakota and durango. i have alot evested in wheels, tires, and spacers, i do not want to change my lug pattern. DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A VEHICLE WHERE THE 390 OR 410 GEAR WAS MORE COMONN THAT WOULD WORK? by that i mean-to whatever means, while acheaving end goal. wich are gear reduction, keep lug pattern, under $300 per axle with LSD. the problem is i can do just about anything, i just dont know what to do sometimes! im ignorant. can i take a compleat assy from a ram and just slide my inner axles in there? or find ring gear and it would work? would it be easier to buy a transfer case with a lower running gear? idk! thats what i am hoping you guys could shed some light on.
now to the 360 swap. like i said i run street stock. so while i am doing the swap i want a better cam, perferably roller. i read that our blocks are already set up to accept roller cams. WAS THERE ANY FACTORY MAGNUM MOTORS THAT CAME WITH A PRETTY HOT ROLLER CAM? rt dakota/durango maybe? ram 2500 with 360 maybe? ALSO WAS THERE ANY MAGNUMS THAT COME WITH FACTORY HEADERS, ROLLER ROCKERS, FLAT TOPS? any knowledge someone knows here will be helpful!
now to the computer. i was told that the 318 and 360 are exactly the same except for bore and stroke. my heads will work, comp, etc. THEN WHY IS THE PARTS # FOR 360 PERFORMANCE COMPUTER DIFFERNT THAN THE 318? which one should i get? i know ill prolly have to figure that one out when i find my new motor, depending on long block or short block, right? i mean IF I USE MY TOP END WOULD I NEED THE PERFORMANCE COMPUTER FOR MY DAKOTA, BUT IF I USE COMPLETE MOTOR WILL I NEED THE ONE FOR THE VEHICLE IT CAME OUT OF? ALSO DOES THAT PERFORMANCE CPU REPLACE OR PLUG INTO FACTORY CPU?
thanks for all the help in advance, i greatly appreciat it! maybe you guys can help me put all those chevy and ford guys to shame this year! i wasnt far off the pace this past year, always in top 5. im thinking if i can get these mods done, the way they are in my head, the dakota will be hard to beat this year!!!!!

 

Assuming that you are starting with a 318, a cast crank of 4.0" stroke will net better. The balance and metallurgy of the 318 crank is superior to the 360 crank with exception of the mains sizing. The stock computer is for stock ignition setups so modifying the camshaft, exhaust, stroke etc will NEED a flash (to note: the injectors are of different size as well). While you technically can run other computers the data maps are different enough to make the engine run like a lunger. I have heard theat the heads combustion chambers vary a bit between 360 and the 318, but I cannot confirm this. Also, using flattop pistons with stock heads will require attention to valve clearance during the exhaust closing moreso than the intake valve possibly requiring machining of the pistons and balancing the crank. I think from what you are doing that weight management is an issue as well.

 

First of all SPACE your questions and paragraphs!! No one wants to read a novel without spaces. Also you don't have to capitalize all your sentences. Also all the info you are looking for is available in the FAQ and FAQ2 in this section.

For you gear change, what are you trying to accomplish? Great or good MPG? More power? For the best ratio depends on what YOU want. Check out this chart and find out where you want it. Find out your stock ratio and tire size and compare. http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartable.htm

Stock Dakotas ONLY came with 3.23, 3.55 and 3.9. None came with 4.10. If you want 4.10 get the ring and pinion from www.ringpinion.com

I had 3.9 that I installed. I am going to 4.10 right now, for more power.

You can install axles from just about any truck with any ratios you want. Dakota 87-96 will be the only direct fit. Any others will be custom fit, cutting welding may be involved.

For engine numbers check out this site.http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/index.html R/T's came with the same exact 5.9 Magnum all trucks came with. Yes the heads are swappable.

 

thanks for the info guys, its been helpfull. sorry about the novel crazy i was just trying to let you know were i was coming from. trying to help you help me you know. i had it in paragraph form and when i posted it switched it to how it is. idk? i think i have it figured out, the link you gave me on stock engines specs really helped crazy. if you are interested in the motor i plan on building then just let me know. oh and wheight reduction is a vital part of the equision. i think i have found some axles from a rt darango in a salvage yard with 3.9 and lsd. prolly go with those. and just so you know, i found the 360 that came in the 94-96 3500 ram hit its torque peak sooner. thats the only diffarances i could find. i will be using that cam.