could the bad sensor be causing my injector problem. it said inj 1 cntrl crkt firing improperly. and it is hard to start when it is actually cold( sitting a while)

 

It could, since the handshake between the sensor and PCM controls timing and fuel, but the fact that only one of your injectors made a difference when unplugging them leads a wagon train around other things, PCM being one of them. I still think Crazy was right about injector harness.
Even if the belly pan gasket was blown, it should react to the injectors being unplugged.
If you have a DRBII scanner, you should be able to pinpoint it easier than me. I just replace everything until it's new again... except smog, since I don't need emissions here.

The cheapest replacement is the sensor, since that needs replaced anyways. Did cylinder 1 injector stumble when you unplugged it? That would be next if not, then trace the harness, retape it if theres no problems and use new convoluted tubing if the old stuffs brittle, then check the fuel pressure, shine a flashlight into the tb butterfly and look for a lake of oil, and then...PCM's are about $200.00, or used on eBay for $60-70.00, but you'll never know if it's any good.

 

The only difference i noticed was that the iac tried to suck more air when i unplgged the injector. it did it a little bit on a few others but it really did it one number 3. the drb2 says inj 1 control circuit firing improperly

 

It could be that one injectors clogged, or the sensor, or fuel pressure, or not good spark. Did you do the old school spark test on cylinder one wire? Then the rest.

You know how they say all marriages end in death or divorce, an engines life revolves around spark+fuel, so...

Swap two of the injectors and see if the code moves to another cylinder.

 

The IAC was probably adjusting for the difference of fuel that the PCM was used to and having to produce less airflow to the combustion chambers.

 

I think my whole problem lies around the coolant temp sensor because after the engine is actually warm and I restart her she runs fine with no cel. The only other problem I encounter is she shuts off due to the temp sensor being out of range.

 

You haven't replaced that yet? $10.99 at AZ, Napa, Checker.
Git er done...

 

Well I fixed one problem with the hard cold starting but i am confused. The code 27 is still there and only when I do a cold start. On a warm start the light is off. The other problem I am having now is a random shut down in the morning. It has happened about 5 to 15 mins into driving and to restart it I have to wait about a minute completelt shut it off and then try to restart the truck. I am leaning toward a fuel problem but don't know where to start. My fuel gauge isn't working properly and I plan on dropping the tank to check that out soon. Money is tight and I need to fix her asap.

 

Next time it won't start, check to see if it's not getting spark or fuel to narrow it down.

 

Ok I replaced the coolant temp sensor and that only solved one problem the cold hard starting problem. The reason it was acting up because the previous owner had put in two single wire dash sensors so the computer was in limp mode.

the other problem i had was random shut off while driving. a week ago it shut off on the highway so I went to pull off to the shoulder and when i crossed the noise thing that wakes you up the truck restarted itself. I cleaned the battery and terminals, cleaned the computer and connector, cleaned the ing coil and plug wire and removed and reinserted the pdc harness on the fire wall. I was searching for the famous splice but i could not find it.

my code 27 is still there but only on a cold start run after she is warm and i restart her the light is off. I am stumped as to what it is but i am going to seafoam her and use the 3m 3 step fuel system cleaner before i do a complete tune up and oil change.