sucks to hear of these oil pressure problems. seems some engines go forever with good pressure and some dont. judging from the service manual it doesnt appear extremely difficult to change the pump but then again it dont look easy either. whats the dealer want to change it ?

 

I know on the Dakota to change the oil pump you have to drop the oil pan which requires removing the torsion bar and dropping the axel slightly. I'm not sure if you have to do that on the ram though.

But if you get pressure when you start the truck and all the way up until the oil becomes warm and then you pressure drops at low RPM's it probably isn't you pump.

It could be but I'd highly doubt it, I'm changing my water pump saturday and going to look at my sending unit one more time then throw some 15w-40 Rotella T in there and see what happens.

 

I beg to differ on the pump. I think you have so much sludge built up against your pump tube infeed screen that until it gets warm hardly anything can get through. Oil changes and chemical fixes may work over time but the real fix is to clean out the sludge by removing the oil pan.

 

I am about to drive this truck off a cliff.

Now I have coolant draining from somewhere behind the water pump, right by the oil dipstick.

It is NOT the water pump as I just replaced that today and it is still draining. I have no idea where it is coming from. It's looks like it's draining right from where whatever the water pump housing bolts onto to the engine. It looks like the seal between there. Any ideas?

I'm thinking it is the gasket between the block and timing chain case cover.....

 

Sounds like you need to. But iv found a new problem. I can deal with the oil light comin on but when I stomp on the gas it doesn't have the take off power a 5.2 V8 318 should iv been told to take out my o2 sensor the one just before the cat but Idk if that would help any ideas or suggestions.

IF YOU CAN'T DODGE IT RAM IT

 

Do you just not have enough pickup or is there a hesitation when you slam the throttle.

I know mine hesitates when I slam the throttle. I feel like my idle is too low to just go. I mean I idle at 400 RPMS, cleaning out my throttle body with some CRC throttle body cleaner and then using their MAF cleaner helps with my performance a little.

I would definitely try to clean both throttle body and MAF before ripping O2 sensors out. Just my 2 cents.

****Caution: Make sure you read the directions on the can. CRC makes 2 cleaners, one specifically for Throttle body and another specifically for MAF, using one on the other can ruin your part.

 

Hate to pull up an old thread, but I just did a 3.9 to 5.2 swap in my Dakota and now at exactly the right rpm, between the 1 and the very first line above it on my tach, the oil pressure drops to the very bottom of the normal mark. Reducing rpms or increasing them picks it back up, but what are possible fixes to this?

 

Sounds like maybe your IAC Idle Air Control vave/motor my be acting up, or one of the other sensors. Do you have any check engine light codes?

The oil pressure dropping at low RPM sounds like a symptom of low RPM.

 

I had IAC issues with my 3.9 and it's not that. And no check engine light/codes. The rpms are normal, and I actually have to be on the gas a little for the pressure to drop, but only at that certain rpm, any other rpm, higher or lower takes it back up.