Need Some AC Specs.
Hi Guys,
I haven’t needed any help in a while, but I have a question about my 1994 Dakota AC. I’d like of find the specs. and any diagram if it exists. I’ve been working on this thing since the sealed refrigeration warranty expired.
Right after it went out the evaporator core sprung a leak and I changed that. Then years later the compressor clutch went out and due to no clutches available at that time I had to change the compressor.
Everything’s been good for the past few years with the exception of a minute leak. With the high cost of R-134 and my finally using up my 30 lb cylinder last year I have decided to put a stop to it along with the fact that I need to pull a vacuum on it.
I secured an o-ring kit last week in preparation of my total seal and o-ring replacement, but there are tons of o-rings in the kit and not that many connections in the lines and I want to find the torque for the flange bold on top of the compressor.
I can attest to the fact that that R-134 with sealer does not work, for me anyway. The leak is so minute with a vacuum leak down test there is no noticeable loss of vacuum even after say 30 minutes. So, I’m assuming that I have a high side leak and under running pressure and that’s where it’s getting out over an extended period of time.
I’ve found some traces of oil on the compressor flange and an indication on one connection on one line. That’s why I have decided to just replace the o-rings and seals and give that a try.
All I have is a Haynes manual and that’s about next to nothing. It’s so antiquated that it has pictures of expansion valves and receiver/driers in it, but it’s supposed to cover my year model.
So, if any of you can direct me in the direction of some detailed information I would appreciate it.
I haven’t needed any help in a while, but I have a question about my 1994 Dakota AC. I’d like of find the specs. and any diagram if it exists. I’ve been working on this thing since the sealed refrigeration warranty expired.
Right after it went out the evaporator core sprung a leak and I changed that. Then years later the compressor clutch went out and due to no clutches available at that time I had to change the compressor.
Everything’s been good for the past few years with the exception of a minute leak. With the high cost of R-134 and my finally using up my 30 lb cylinder last year I have decided to put a stop to it along with the fact that I need to pull a vacuum on it.
I secured an o-ring kit last week in preparation of my total seal and o-ring replacement, but there are tons of o-rings in the kit and not that many connections in the lines and I want to find the torque for the flange bold on top of the compressor.
I can attest to the fact that that R-134 with sealer does not work, for me anyway. The leak is so minute with a vacuum leak down test there is no noticeable loss of vacuum even after say 30 minutes. So, I’m assuming that I have a high side leak and under running pressure and that’s where it’s getting out over an extended period of time.
I’ve found some traces of oil on the compressor flange and an indication on one connection on one line. That’s why I have decided to just replace the o-rings and seals and give that a try.
All I have is a Haynes manual and that’s about next to nothing. It’s so antiquated that it has pictures of expansion valves and receiver/driers in it, but it’s supposed to cover my year model.
So, if any of you can direct me in the direction of some detailed information I would appreciate it.
Crazy4x4RT Thanks for the info.
This is my first chance to get back since I posted the question. I've done a little probing around and haven't found what I need yet. I can't seem to find the forest for the trees.
We have, as I'm sure a lot of you have, a cool front right now and the AC isn't top priority. I picked up a couple more cans of refrigerant this week in preparation and I even stumbled across the seal kit in my glove compartment, but that’s about as far as I’ve gotten. It’s still on the list though, just not at the top right now.
Since I seem to be “forum challenged” could you possibly post the direct link to the manual I need? I ran across all kind of good info, but just haven’t found what I need yet.
While I’m here I want to ask another non-related question. I was reading a little article this morning about how the car manufacturers are starting to turbo charge some of the new models. It got me to thinking and I was wondering if any of you have turbo charged your Dakotas?
If so how hard is it and how expensive?
Thanks
This is my first chance to get back since I posted the question. I've done a little probing around and haven't found what I need yet. I can't seem to find the forest for the trees.
We have, as I'm sure a lot of you have, a cool front right now and the AC isn't top priority. I picked up a couple more cans of refrigerant this week in preparation and I even stumbled across the seal kit in my glove compartment, but that’s about as far as I’ve gotten. It’s still on the list though, just not at the top right now.
Since I seem to be “forum challenged” could you possibly post the direct link to the manual I need? I ran across all kind of good info, but just haven’t found what I need yet.
While I’m here I want to ask another non-related question. I was reading a little article this morning about how the car manufacturers are starting to turbo charge some of the new models. It got me to thinking and I was wondering if any of you have turbo charged your Dakotas?
If so how hard is it and how expensive?
Thanks
I have.
If so how hard is it and how expensive?
Hi Guys,
I haven’t needed any help in a while, but I have a question about my 1994 Dakota AC. I’d like of find the specs. and any diagram if it exists. I’ve been working on this thing since the sealed refrigeration warranty expired.
Right after it went out the evaporator core sprung a leak and I changed that. Then years later the compressor clutch went out and due to no clutches available at that time I had to change the compressor.
Everything’s been good for the past few years with the exception of a minute leak. With the high cost of R-134 and my finally using up my 30 lb cylinder last year I have decided to put a stop to it along with the fact that I need to pull a vacuum on it.
I secured an o-ring kit last week in preparation of my total seal and o-ring replacement, but there are tons of o-rings in the kit and not that many connections in the lines and I want to find the torque for the flange bold on top of the compressor.
I can attest to the fact that that R-134 with sealer does not work, for me anyway. The leak is so minute with a vacuum leak down test there is no noticeable loss of vacuum even after say 30 minutes. So, I’m assuming that I have a high side leak and under running pressure and that’s where it’s getting out over an extended period of time.
I’ve found some traces of oil on the compressor flange and an indication on one connection on one line. That’s why I have decided to just replace the o-rings and seals and give that a try.
All I have is a Haynes manual and that’s about next to nothing. It’s so antiquated that it has pictures of expansion valves and receiver/driers in it, but it’s supposed to cover my year model.
So, if any of you can direct me in the direction of some detailed information I would appreciate it.
I haven’t needed any help in a while, but I have a question about my 1994 Dakota AC. I’d like of find the specs. and any diagram if it exists. I’ve been working on this thing since the sealed refrigeration warranty expired.
Right after it went out the evaporator core sprung a leak and I changed that. Then years later the compressor clutch went out and due to no clutches available at that time I had to change the compressor.
Everything’s been good for the past few years with the exception of a minute leak. With the high cost of R-134 and my finally using up my 30 lb cylinder last year I have decided to put a stop to it along with the fact that I need to pull a vacuum on it.
I secured an o-ring kit last week in preparation of my total seal and o-ring replacement, but there are tons of o-rings in the kit and not that many connections in the lines and I want to find the torque for the flange bold on top of the compressor.
I can attest to the fact that that R-134 with sealer does not work, for me anyway. The leak is so minute with a vacuum leak down test there is no noticeable loss of vacuum even after say 30 minutes. So, I’m assuming that I have a high side leak and under running pressure and that’s where it’s getting out over an extended period of time.
I’ve found some traces of oil on the compressor flange and an indication on one connection on one line. That’s why I have decided to just replace the o-rings and seals and give that a try.
All I have is a Haynes manual and that’s about next to nothing. It’s so antiquated that it has pictures of expansion valves and receiver/driers in it, but it’s supposed to cover my year model.
So, if any of you can direct me in the direction of some detailed information I would appreciate it.
Your manual is antiquated because your '94 doesn't have an expansion valve or receiver dryer. You have an orifice tube and an accumulator.
A.J.
A. J.
You misunderstood.
I keep a thermometer in my vent at all times. That’s the number one indicator of the loss of refrigerant when it slowly puts out warmer air. I know the normal range because I’ve kept it in the vent for about 16 years. Then there’s the constant on/off cycling of the clutch due to the low pressure switch kicking it on and off. Then, when I put the gauges on it and it has a static pressure of 80 psi in 95 degree temp when it should be 90 to 100 psi that’s another indicator of lost refrigerant.
I do not use a vacuum leak down test to find a leak. It simply will tell you real quick if it’s a major leak. After I replace the seals that will be the first thing I do when I get it pulled down to 30 Hg is shut down my pump and let it stand for at least a half hour.
I mentioned the oil at the compressor flange that’s another key indicator of a leak. It’s minute because it takes months to leak down. That’s why I said the high side must be it because the difference between 30-35 psi low side running and 275-295 high side depending on the ambient temperature while running just makes me think it’s a high side leak at the compressor flange. I’ve had tires I couldn’t hardly find a leak in at 30 psi. That’s why I’m going to just change all the o-rings since they are coming up on 20 years old and I opened the system 2 times and didn’t replace the o-rings. I got away with it for quite a few years, but now the time has come to change them.
I could have used the florescent dye in the refrigerant trick, but I don’t have a black light, besides the fact that I knew that the problem probably was in the connections and o-rings. I just limped along, but now since the refrigerant cost has gone through the roof, not to mention the fact I need to get any moisture out of the system, it’s time to do something.
I also know my 94 has an orifice tube and an accumulator that’s what I was getting at. The manual only covers expansion valves and receiver/driers, but is supposed to cover my model. I think 94 was about the first or second year they went to the R-134 systems and they probably didn’t update the AC section.
I’ve got a pretty good grip on auto AC self-repair. I’ve been doing it for over 24 years and I’ll admit I don’t know it all, but I’ve invested in the manuals, extensive reading, two sets of gauges and made three home made vacuum pumps out of old freezer compressors to do my work.
I also have a son-in-law and friend that are AC techs if I need any help on the basics. I just need specs that they can’t help me.
You misunderstood.
I keep a thermometer in my vent at all times. That’s the number one indicator of the loss of refrigerant when it slowly puts out warmer air. I know the normal range because I’ve kept it in the vent for about 16 years. Then there’s the constant on/off cycling of the clutch due to the low pressure switch kicking it on and off. Then, when I put the gauges on it and it has a static pressure of 80 psi in 95 degree temp when it should be 90 to 100 psi that’s another indicator of lost refrigerant.
I do not use a vacuum leak down test to find a leak. It simply will tell you real quick if it’s a major leak. After I replace the seals that will be the first thing I do when I get it pulled down to 30 Hg is shut down my pump and let it stand for at least a half hour.
I mentioned the oil at the compressor flange that’s another key indicator of a leak. It’s minute because it takes months to leak down. That’s why I said the high side must be it because the difference between 30-35 psi low side running and 275-295 high side depending on the ambient temperature while running just makes me think it’s a high side leak at the compressor flange. I’ve had tires I couldn’t hardly find a leak in at 30 psi. That’s why I’m going to just change all the o-rings since they are coming up on 20 years old and I opened the system 2 times and didn’t replace the o-rings. I got away with it for quite a few years, but now the time has come to change them.
I could have used the florescent dye in the refrigerant trick, but I don’t have a black light, besides the fact that I knew that the problem probably was in the connections and o-rings. I just limped along, but now since the refrigerant cost has gone through the roof, not to mention the fact I need to get any moisture out of the system, it’s time to do something.
I also know my 94 has an orifice tube and an accumulator that’s what I was getting at. The manual only covers expansion valves and receiver/driers, but is supposed to cover my model. I think 94 was about the first or second year they went to the R-134 systems and they probably didn’t update the AC section.
I’ve got a pretty good grip on auto AC self-repair. I’ve been doing it for over 24 years and I’ll admit I don’t know it all, but I’ve invested in the manuals, extensive reading, two sets of gauges and made three home made vacuum pumps out of old freezer compressors to do my work.
I also have a son-in-law and friend that are AC techs if I need any help on the basics. I just need specs that they can’t help me.


