I have a feeling my diagram is gonna confuse him more cuz I added a relay to mine. It's the only way I could kill the power to the regulator with the ignition off. Found a switched circuit in the cab fuse box...think it was the cigar lighter circuit. If he keeps yelling at us we'll probably eventually get him up and running.

 

Nope that diagram hit the spot. I just need something to make sure I was simplifying it enough to make sure it worked. The voltage regulator I got is for a 1990 Dodge Dakota external regulator and I'm putting it in a 91 cuz 91 had an internal regulator. And his ECU is not receiving expelling any kind of signal. So thank you I'll let you know how it. I should be able to use an external regulator from the 1990 Dodge Dakota should I think there would be reason why I couldn't. Thank you all for your help and support I'll let you know how it goes

 

One more thing to make you crazy. You have got to make sure your power source to the regulator cuts out when the ignition is off. If the power to the reg stays on when the ignition is off you will drain the battery overnight every time. This is why I added a relay. I could not find a switched circuit that was nearby so I had to go in the cab.

 

Now that you mention it that may be my parasitic draw Bronze :/

 

hmmmm

 

Supposedly in some cases you can keep the severed alternator field wires to your PCM from triggering your “Check Engine” light. You connect the two severed wires to, I believe, an 80 ohm resistor. In some cases it will fake out your PCM into thinking everything is copecetic with the alternator. But at 80 ohms that sucker will get hot so keep it away from anything you don’t want to melt. It didn’t work in my situation but in others it supposedly does. Guess it depends on exactly what is screwed up in your PCM. My check engine light stays on and drives me nuts so I wrapped a small piece of chipboard with black electrician’s tape and blocked out the light. Out of sight, out of mind.

 

OK, now I’m remembering. The external regulator requires a beefy power wire or you’ll get some wacky voltage fluctuations. There are almost all 14 gauge wires (if not all) to tap into. That’s not beefy enough. It has to be 12 gauge wire or thicker. The only way I could achieve that was to connect directly to my battery with the 12 gauge wire. But then that meant I would drain the battery when the ignition was off cuz the battery is not “switched”. That’s why I added a relay that I powered from my cigar lighter circuit (it is a switched circuit). That turns the relay on and off which in turn powers the reg on and off.

 

It's my other littler truck that has the parasitic draw.

 

Well I got it to work. It just my voltage is a little bit high from the alternator now I'm using 12 gauge wire right now for my field wires and my ground wire do I need to go up and gauge then if that's the case. I was wondering if the reason why I'm having such a high spike in alternator output is because of the gauge not being big enough it popped my fuel line off my fuel pump

 

12 gauge should be plenty thick. What voltage readings are you getting?