EGR question?....
"95 3.9 V6 5 spd. 214,000 miles
Truck cranks and runs great...but I'm getting a check engine light after driving for 15 minutes without stopping. It never comes comes on any sooner but stays on until I turn motor off and then it will go another 15 minutes. I checked the codes with key switch and got a code 12 and a code 32. 32 is EGR problem? Truck has no sign of an problems driving it. So how do I test my EGR ? and what can I expect to gain as it is driving just fine? I get about 17.5 mpg around town and about 23.5 on the road.
Thanks for your help,
Dan
Truck cranks and runs great...but I'm getting a check engine light after driving for 15 minutes without stopping. It never comes comes on any sooner but stays on until I turn motor off and then it will go another 15 minutes. I checked the codes with key switch and got a code 12 and a code 32. 32 is EGR problem? Truck has no sign of an problems driving it. So how do I test my EGR ? and what can I expect to gain as it is driving just fine? I get about 17.5 mpg around town and about 23.5 on the road.
Thanks for your help,
Dan
I changed mine on my 94 V6 auto w/ 153,000.
I started getting the 32 code right after I cut my rattling cat off. The CEL would come and go at random...always showing the 32 code when I checked it. The truck ran great all during this so, I didn't worry much about it for a few more months.
A couple of months ago I replaced the EGR....no more CEL or 32 code. Couldn't tell much difference in performance or MPG but, it did seem a little smoother but, that could be my imagination. It seems every little thing I do makes it a little better.
The old EGR didn't 'look' that bad, a bit of carbon but, the pintle seemed to move freely enough. It could've been a problem with the gizmo attached to it. All I know....it runs great now and I don't see the CEL anymore.
I started getting the 32 code right after I cut my rattling cat off. The CEL would come and go at random...always showing the 32 code when I checked it. The truck ran great all during this so, I didn't worry much about it for a few more months.
A couple of months ago I replaced the EGR....no more CEL or 32 code. Couldn't tell much difference in performance or MPG but, it did seem a little smoother but, that could be my imagination. It seems every little thing I do makes it a little better.
The old EGR didn't 'look' that bad, a bit of carbon but, the pintle seemed to move freely enough. It could've been a problem with the gizmo attached to it. All I know....it runs great now and I don't see the CEL anymore.
Usually what fails is the EGR vacuum modulator that sends vacuum to the EGR to open. To isolate the problem you need to do a few things.
1) Get a hand held vacuum pump and put in on the EGR nipple. The one ON the EGR, don't put in on the black EGR vacuum modulator. With the engine running pump it up. If the engine dies, the EGR valve itself is okay. If it doesn't, now you have to determine if it's a plugged passage or a bad valve.
2) Get a vacuum gauge. Hook it up between the EGR valve and the EGR vacuum modulator. Take it for a road test. Watch the gauge. Under light acceleration and cruise you'll pull less than than 5" of vacuum. If it does than you have a problem somewhere else.
A.J.
1) Get a hand held vacuum pump and put in on the EGR nipple. The one ON the EGR, don't put in on the black EGR vacuum modulator. With the engine running pump it up. If the engine dies, the EGR valve itself is okay. If it doesn't, now you have to determine if it's a plugged passage or a bad valve.
2) Get a vacuum gauge. Hook it up between the EGR valve and the EGR vacuum modulator. Take it for a road test. Watch the gauge. Under light acceleration and cruise you'll pull less than than 5" of vacuum. If it does than you have a problem somewhere else.
A.J.






