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89 dakota sport 3.9 no spark

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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 07:28 PM
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Default 89 dakota sport 3.9 no spark

My dakota for some reason wont start, it just cranks but never fire. I have done all I could think of to figure out what the problem was.

Ive changed all the relays, replaced the computer, new cap, rotor, spark plugs, plug wires, hall effect switch in distributor, and the ignition coil. I have tested some wires for shorts from the computer to the relays and they are showing good. the computer has a solid ground. I am out of ideas of what to do next.

any ideas would be helpful
 
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Curto17
My dakota for some reason wont start, it just cranks but never fire. I have done all I could think of to figure out what the problem was.

Ive changed all the relays, replaced the computer, new cap, rotor, spark plugs, plug wires, hall effect switch in distributor, and the ignition coil. I have tested some wires for shorts from the computer to the relays and they are showing good. the computer has a solid ground. I am out of ideas of what to do next.

any ideas would be helpful

Try replacing the crank senser I have a 97 dakota and had the same problem and that was the fix
 
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 02:40 AM
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did you check the Ignition coil/fuel pump power splice under the PDC?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 01:47 PM
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Their is no cps on the 89. That's what the hall effect sensor in the distributor is for. The ignition coil/fuel pump relay has voltage when the engine is cranking. I'm not sure what splice your talking about in the pdc
 
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 07:23 PM
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hmm, thought id give it a try since its a common problem with the 91-95s
 
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 12:02 AM
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the no was for mudbogger with the crank sensor. I just dont know what you mean by the PDC. because the only place that has fuses is under the dash, and all fuses have 12v. The other place that I think your talking about is the relays that are attached to the side of the fender on drivers side.

Traced all the wiring for the whole ignition side to see if i had an open wire but they tested good. Tomorrow I am going to buy new relay block holders and try that.

The only thing that I am not for sure on is the metal fins in the distributor, are they supposed to have corrotion on them? Would it affect the hall effect switch/distributor pick-up?
 
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