'92 Dodge Dakota tranny help
ok, yeah def don't want to check engine oil level when the engine is running hahaha.
last thing I can think of to try besides what I already suggested, is to look at the TV (detent) cable that hooks from the throttle body down to the trans and make sure it is not broken somehow. Could be snapped inside the plastic sleeve or maybe it is broken on one of the ends. That's all I can tell you.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...e-manuals.html
last thing I can think of to try besides what I already suggested, is to look at the TV (detent) cable that hooks from the throttle body down to the trans and make sure it is not broken somehow. Could be snapped inside the plastic sleeve or maybe it is broken on one of the ends. That's all I can tell you.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...e-manuals.html
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From: Payson, UT
If your engine oil level is going up, it usually means something else is being added to it, usually either fuel or coolant. Coolant can get in in a few ways, usually from a bad head gasket, cracked head/block. Fuel can get in from a bad injector. If none of those are the case, then do an oil change and make sure the level is good, and just keep an eye on it.
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I received Some advice on what may be wrong. Do you guys think that it might be the transmission fluid filter? It's a quick fix and it may have been the cause of my transmission failure. The way it was explained to me is that if the filter was clogged it would keep transmission fluid from getting to the transmission causing the transmission to not be able to shift. Just wondering and hoping for some feedback.
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Update:
I just finished replacing the transmission filter, and it didn't fix my problem. While fixing it, I became fairly acquainted with the mechanisms coming in and out of it, and figured out that the throttle body is reacting as it should when the gas pedal is pressed. My check engine light is not on, but I was thinking and researching other problems it might have.
Could it be the torque converter? I tried to drain some of the transmission fluid out through the tubes that feed into the radiator, but even when the car is running it was not pushing any of the fluid out of the tubes, which leads me to believe that it may be a problem with the fluid being pumped throughout the transmission and into the radiator. When checking the transmission fluid after letting the truck warm up to running temperature and shifting the gear shifter through the gears, the fluid on the dipstick is clean as the new fluid I refilled the pan with. With the fluid in the radiator and inside the transmission housing being old, I can only assume that the fluid inside the transmission housing is as dirty as the fluid inthe radiator. If the torque converter was workig properly, would the fluid in the pan not be mixed with the old fluid after lettin the car warm up and shifting through the gears, giving the fluid on the dipstick a darker color?
Could it be the transmission control solenoid? Reading through some reviews and forum posts similar to my own, it seems that solenoid malfunction may be the cause of my trouble. An article I read says that solenoid malfunction can cause the transmission to behave as if it is in neutral, and not shift into any other gear.
A transmission control solenoid runs about $65 and is the most inexpensive potential solution, while the torque converter is more in the ballpark of $150, so it would be a second choice if I decided to gamble on a solution, which I am not interested in doing. Could one of these two devices be the problem? Hopefully this new information will help to determine a diagnosis that would help me decide on my next course of action. Replacing either of these would seem like a plausible solution, but as I've said, I don't have the resources to gamble on one of these parts fixing my problem.
I just finished replacing the transmission filter, and it didn't fix my problem. While fixing it, I became fairly acquainted with the mechanisms coming in and out of it, and figured out that the throttle body is reacting as it should when the gas pedal is pressed. My check engine light is not on, but I was thinking and researching other problems it might have.
Could it be the torque converter? I tried to drain some of the transmission fluid out through the tubes that feed into the radiator, but even when the car is running it was not pushing any of the fluid out of the tubes, which leads me to believe that it may be a problem with the fluid being pumped throughout the transmission and into the radiator. When checking the transmission fluid after letting the truck warm up to running temperature and shifting the gear shifter through the gears, the fluid on the dipstick is clean as the new fluid I refilled the pan with. With the fluid in the radiator and inside the transmission housing being old, I can only assume that the fluid inside the transmission housing is as dirty as the fluid inthe radiator. If the torque converter was workig properly, would the fluid in the pan not be mixed with the old fluid after lettin the car warm up and shifting through the gears, giving the fluid on the dipstick a darker color?
Could it be the transmission control solenoid? Reading through some reviews and forum posts similar to my own, it seems that solenoid malfunction may be the cause of my trouble. An article I read says that solenoid malfunction can cause the transmission to behave as if it is in neutral, and not shift into any other gear.
A transmission control solenoid runs about $65 and is the most inexpensive potential solution, while the torque converter is more in the ballpark of $150, so it would be a second choice if I decided to gamble on a solution, which I am not interested in doing. Could one of these two devices be the problem? Hopefully this new information will help to determine a diagnosis that would help me decide on my next course of action. Replacing either of these would seem like a plausible solution, but as I've said, I don't have the resources to gamble on one of these parts fixing my problem.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Payson, UT
If it was my truck, I would take it to a transmission specialist. I don't know enough about them to go that deep. You did what I would have done as a first step, if that didn't help, I would take it to a specialist and have them look at it.
You can always call some junk yards and see what a new (to you) trans would cost. Might be less expensive than taking it to a shop depending on what is actually the problem.
With the info that you gave us about the fluid looking like it is not mixing with the old fluid, that screams that your pump went out and would def explain why the trans does not engage in any gear. Just an educated guess though. If it is the pump I would say just get a used trans because you will be paying a lot of money for someone to replace the pump in your current trans. Just my
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volaredon is correct
you can put gauges on your trans and check your pressures
you can take off the coolant return line and check flow into a clean container
From the return line (rear of case) cooler flow must be at least 1 qt. in 20 seconds (.8 gpm), in drive at idle. The SonnaFlow® is the best tool
to isolate a restricted radiator. Good SonnaFlow® readings are: .7-.9 idle drive, 1.8 at 45 mph TCC off, a rapid rise to 2.1-2.2 gpm with TCC
apply.
you can put gauges on your trans and check your pressures
you can take off the coolant return line and check flow into a clean container
From the return line (rear of case) cooler flow must be at least 1 qt. in 20 seconds (.8 gpm), in drive at idle. The SonnaFlow® is the best tool
to isolate a restricted radiator. Good SonnaFlow® readings are: .7-.9 idle drive, 1.8 at 45 mph TCC off, a rapid rise to 2.1-2.2 gpm with TCC
apply.