got the play out of my steering shaft this this is safe?
Lower Coupler is worn out, I cut a grove in the side drilled a hole thru both the coupler and the rod and crushed it with a nut and bolt.
Does anybody foresee additional problems or dangers of the shaft not being able to slide?
here is a pic
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9tw6tt1fql...2015.20.29.jpg
Does anybody foresee additional problems or dangers of the shaft not being able to slide?
here is a pic
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9tw6tt1fql...2015.20.29.jpg
Lower Coupler is worn out, I cut a grove in the side drilled a hole thru both the coupler and the rod and crushed it with a nut and bolt.
Does anybody foresee additional problems or dangers of the shaft not being able to slide?
here is a pic
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9tw6tt1fql...2015.20.29.jpg
Does anybody foresee additional problems or dangers of the shaft not being able to slide?
here is a pic
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9tw6tt1fql...2015.20.29.jpg
Or if the shaft decides to break (due to vibration) where the hole was drilled.
Hope this helps.
AB1
The steering wheel is secured pretty well inside the cab. Personally, I would have gone with a smaller grade 5 bolt for the above mentioned reasons.
Unless your frame is falling apart, you would have to hit something stronger than your truck at 40+ mph for the steering wheel to pin you into the seat. Just in case, you may want to consider drilling a hole through the bolt from driver side to passanger side, not front to back, half the size of the bolt at the top and bottom of the steering shaft. This will allow it to collapse as intended during an accident. Don't re-tighten the bolt to the point where it starts to twist.
Unless your frame is falling apart, you would have to hit something stronger than your truck at 40+ mph for the steering wheel to pin you into the seat. Just in case, you may want to consider drilling a hole through the bolt from driver side to passanger side, not front to back, half the size of the bolt at the top and bottom of the steering shaft. This will allow it to collapse as intended during an accident. Don't re-tighten the bolt to the point where it starts to twist.
The frame and body are not mounted directly to each other. The body sits on rubber mounts which let the body move separate from the frame (small amounts), as well as it absorbs vibrations. That shaft needed a little play to slide back and forth to prevent binding. It may not be noticeable but hit a hard speed bump and the tension will build.
You could have always used a C-Clamp to crush the outer piece just enough to tighten up the gap so it is nice and tight.
You could have always used a C-Clamp to crush the outer piece just enough to tighten up the gap so it is nice and tight.
I know it is supposed to collapse, but idk if it's for safety or instalation and removal or both. I didn't think to crush it I was just gonna weld it lol maybe I'll try something else. I planned on letting my son drive this in a couple more years don't want to bypass safety stuff.
Im not sure if i can post in this thread for my problem, but figured it was okay since im having somewhat of the same problem.
Im having way to much play in my steering, and realized while looking at the steering shaft this pin has a bit of wiggle room before it actually causes the shaft to turn.
Is this my problem? and if so what can i do to fix it?
By the way i borrowed the pic to point out what "pin" im referring to because i cant get a picture of my trucks steering shaft at the moment. hope you don't mind lol
Im having way to much play in my steering, and realized while looking at the steering shaft this pin has a bit of wiggle room before it actually causes the shaft to turn.
Is this my problem? and if so what can i do to fix it?
By the way i borrowed the pic to point out what "pin" im referring to because i cant get a picture of my trucks steering shaft at the moment. hope you don't mind lol


