I'm on the verge of takin a chainsaw to this bed liner; anyone have a link to how to disengage a York liner lok? i put a box under it but its stuck on the sides. there are four 2"x 1/2" tabs front and rear. i can't do anything with them

thank y'all

 

now researching how to remove the York linerlok bedliner; it's killin me. can't find disengage...link? instruc please. i'm tryin to keep it together over here

 

Nevermind.............i got it.........not as big a deal as i made it out to be

 

It's not five times, it's on-off-on-off-on (three times on). The computer will return codes stored in the last 50 starts. Typical return would be; 12 (for the battery disconnected) then 55 for end of report.
A bad fuel pump is not detected and will not return a code. The fact that the 2x4 trick worked is highly indicative of a bad pump. You are likely to get by with that trick for quite a while, but I would not go far or long without replacing the pump. A new Carter pump on ebay should run you no more than 140 bucks. Be sure to get one with the revised metal strainer/filter on the bottom. Do not fall for a cheap knock off.
Remove the bed or drop the tank, it's your call. In my case, it was easier to drain and drop the tank.
Before you remove the pump from the tank, disconnect the battery and relieve fuel line pressure. Take care not to break the small plastic barbed fitting off the roll over valve assy. You need to remove this valve and reuse it on the new pump assy. A new roll over valve is available only from the dealer for almost as much as the whole pump assy ( we're talking 108 dollars). Push the hose off the fitting, don't try to pull it off. Like a finger puzzle, it just gets harder to remove when you pull on it. Also, go to the parts store and get a package of Ford style gas line clips, which are extremely close to the Chrysler ones. The Ford ones work fine, if you happen to stumble across Chrysler ones, lucky you, get them. There is a very small, secondary lock tab on the Chrysler fuel line clips, which is absent on the Ford ones, find the tab and they come off fairly easily. These clips get brittle with age and are likely to fail. Doesn't hurt to have spares on hand for a few bucks.

 

after whacking the tank and making the pump run long enough to get me home, i thought surely changing out the fuel pump would get me rolling but it still won't crank. i checked the wires leading to the control box, they seem okay. i switched relays around(they all have the same number on them so they must all be identical, right?) the relay for the fuel pump does work in the starter slot cause it allowed the starter to turn. i switched them out in the ASD relay spot as well. i got fire to the pump and watched it work. my friend's putting the bed back on now.
my luck to have two or more simutaneous problems. now i'm thinking that the brain is not communicating with the fuel pump relay. i hate to have to buy a new computer for it.....
is there anything else i can rule out guys? ignition switch? i have my wiper jerry rigged; can i run a hot wire to the pump and have a toggle switch in the dash that i could just turn on and off?

i'm at a loss here....TIA

 

One more note; my buddy tested and says that there IS connectivity between the brain box and the relay box so we know it's not a bad wire there nor all the way to the pump.
thanks

 

Focusing on getting you pump running, I haven't addressed other issues you may have. Does the pump run for a second or two, then quit? This indicates the PCM is not detecting a signal from the distributor pick-up.
Read the post titled "1990 Dakota - No Spark or power at coil" and see if any of that applies to your situation.
I don't think a switch to hot wire the pump is gonna do much more than flood the engine. If the distributor pick-up (aka camshaft position sensor) is the problem, identifty and fix it. A bad sensor, connector, wire, etc. in this circuit will result in the PCM forcing the ASD relay to drop out which kills the coil, injectors and fuel pump relay. The "brain box" does not run the pump directly, it furnishes ground to the the ASD relay and the fuel pump relay.

 

For testing purposes only, you could remove the relay and install a fused jumper wire between the 30 and 87 terminals in the relay socket.

 

The ASD, (auto shut down), is set up to so it will not allow the fuel pump, ignition coil or fuel injectors to run unless the PCM, (powertrain control module), is seeing a cranking or running engine. That is why you will only hear the fuel pump run a couple of seconds when you turn the ignition switch to the on position. You can test the ASD system through the positive coil wire, unplug the coil hook up a test lamp to the coil 12 volt positive and when you turn the ignition switch to the run position it should light up for a couple of seconds then go out, or should light up while cranking. If the ASD relay or system isn't working it won't supply a ground to the fuel pump relay.

You can run a toggle switch to the fuel pump without fear of flooding because the injectors will not cycle without the engine running but if your having a ASD issue the fuel pump running will not help if your not firing injectors or a coil.

 

Right you are about the injectors.

On the 3.9 and 5.2 liter engines, pin 51 of the PCM furnishes ground to both the ASD and fuel pump relays. Other than that, your post is good as gold. I maintain, however, that the likely cause is failure of the PCM to see the signal from the camshaft position sensor. Ideally, we need to find and fix the actual problem