A couple of transfer case questions
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Near Calgary, Alberta
Almost sounds like an AWD transfer case. What happens if you put the parking brake on? The front wheels don't move then, right? (Not implying that you don't know the difference in cases, but I'm out of other ideas here.)
Last edited by bigdumbloser; Dec 30, 2013 at 10:50 AM.
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Rookie
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Near Calgary, Alberta
The "no frills" NP 231 is a very simple chain drive transfer case. If the front shaft isn't turning, the chances are that you have either a broken chain or (as has already been pointed out) a badly adjusted linkage. If you checked the shifting of this t-case before you installed it & it did shift properly, I'd put my money on the linkage either being loose, disconnected, or tightened in the wrong position.
There are lots of write-ups on these t-cases as well as exploded diagrams if you need them, but it should be easy to set up. Loosen the clamping bolts so that the linkage is still connected but free to slide in and out, then put the t-case into a gear by hand - if you can't tell which one it is, move the truck and see (if it moves very slowly, it's 4 lo). Now put the stick into that position, crawl back under and tighten the clamping bolts on the linkage and you should be OK. The early manual shift 4wd setups also had a front axle disconnect that essentially split one of the front axles (on my jeeps it's always been a vacuum disconnect, while on my GM pickup, it was electrical). If you have this type of axle, that's another area to look at if the 4wd isn't working. In the vacuum connections, there was usually a problem with one of the hoses or the vacuum actuator had rusted through. In the electrically driven systems, often the actuator is shot - a service manual of some sort should give you all the details on your particular truck (even a Haynes manual).
There are lots of write-ups on these t-cases as well as exploded diagrams if you need them, but it should be easy to set up. Loosen the clamping bolts so that the linkage is still connected but free to slide in and out, then put the t-case into a gear by hand - if you can't tell which one it is, move the truck and see (if it moves very slowly, it's 4 lo). Now put the stick into that position, crawl back under and tighten the clamping bolts on the linkage and you should be OK. The early manual shift 4wd setups also had a front axle disconnect that essentially split one of the front axles (on my jeeps it's always been a vacuum disconnect, while on my GM pickup, it was electrical). If you have this type of axle, that's another area to look at if the 4wd isn't working. In the vacuum connections, there was usually a problem with one of the hoses or the vacuum actuator had rusted through. In the electrically driven systems, often the actuator is shot - a service manual of some sort should give you all the details on your particular truck (even a Haynes manual).
Before I put the tcase in I moved the shifter input and spun the shafts to make sure it made sense, and it did. I wrote down the positions and the behaviour corresponded with the stick. This is one of those stupid situations in which everything checks out, then just doesn't work after it's all been assembled. I think my next step is to pull apart my old tcase (I replaced it because the rear drive shaft went off balance and experienced an energetic disassembly, breaking off the tcase's rear output shaft as it exited) and see if there's something there that can account for what I'm experiencing. I've never been inside one of these things, just looked at the Haynes exploded views.
did you try giving it a little gas to see if maybe the front part is in limbo. all my trucks do this including my 2010 gmc(which I now loathe).
though I would think its not supposed to but doesnt hurt to check.
though I would think its not supposed to but doesnt hurt to check.
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From: Ontario, Canada
Have you confirmed that the front drive shaft doesn't turn? The disconnect shift fork did have a habit of breaking on Jeeps & I assume that it would be the same assembly on the Dakota. With the fork broken, the 4wd drive switch would still be activated.
Again, if it worked before installation, it should be something simple that you're overlooking. Personally, I'd focus on the shifting parts. I'd have someone else try the shifting while I was underneath watching - does the shifter arm actually move the t-case shift rod? If yes, I would undo the shift linkage and put it into a gear by hand and see if that will turn the front shaft.
Again, if it worked before installation, it should be something simple that you're overlooking. Personally, I'd focus on the shifting parts. I'd have someone else try the shifting while I was underneath watching - does the shifter arm actually move the t-case shift rod? If yes, I would undo the shift linkage and put it into a gear by hand and see if that will turn the front shaft.