Basically I attempted my first rebuild on my transmission. truck is a 91 dakota 318 (LA) motor. I used the atsg and had everything according to spec (torque, clutch clearances, pump tolerances for being good, new bushings, bands, steels, clutches Torque converter sealing rings, gaskets, o-rings, and so forth even replaced a few hard parts ((forward drum and direct drum)) as well as installed the superior shift kit. i started it up still on jack stands and had all gears and the wheels spun forward when in neutral as well. was told thats normal on stands and decided to take it for a drive. everything shifted great (2-3 felt firm but was happy with it ((not too rough but nice and solid and firm) went to turn around and was slipping at take off.....

took it on 3 2-3 mile test drives and once warm it always slips/shudders/jerks at take off... so i decided to drop it down again and check it out... sure enough the rear drum clutches are smoked....... What may have caused this... where did i screw up? The pump seems good, and definately pushes the volume out (unable to check pressure as i dont have a gauge and the trans is already removed but when unplugged the cooler line and had someone start it it pumped alot of fluid out in just a few seconds)

I guess just looking for pointers to see where i went wrong or things to look for. I havent tore into it again past the rear clutches yet. thanks in advance....

 

not being a trans expert. but the first thing to check is the cooler lines. some daks have a check valve in the cooler lines that holds trash. the cooler lines feed the trans bearings as they go back into the trans. i found an EXTERNAL filter. the old auto zone 2210 magenfine filter is no longer available at auto zone. BUT i did find the same thing as JX-160 brand-- ATP. at a real parts house uses 3/8" tube. ONLY use high pressure hose. SAE J1019 217 psi working. NOT fuel hose for a carb engine.

 

So true.
Did you take the radiator in for a complete flush and also the lines?
If not then all the trash from your old transmission just smoked your new one.
I worked at a shop and we sold new and used transmissions.
If the customer could not absolutely confirm with us (with absolute proof) that his lines and cooler were professionally cleaned we would not warranty the transmission he installed.
Sucks but you can understand why.

 

It isnt plumbed through the cooler in the transmission and hasnt been since the new radiator (like 4 months ago). The check ball has been long removed. I changed the hose to the aux cooler, cleaned the aux cooler and hard lines with 3 cans of that cooler cleaner stuff and then flushed clean atf through them. (used cleaner pressuring in both sides of the hoses) everything coming back out after cleaning was nice and clean.

 

this is VERY rare. i have heard of the inner lining of hose making a flap that stops flow. but it is VERY rare. but i did see one time a hose plastic cap caught on the in side. the machine would go 3 ft forward and stop, then go 3 ft back and stop. again VERY rare.

 

When you had it all apart did you check the resistance of the solenoids? They can get old and not engage fully. Then you'd get slippage when in gear and subsequent chewing up of parts.

Also, what ATF fluid did you use?
Should be Mopar ATF+4 (there are equivalents, but my experience is that the Mopar ATF is best for long term)

Also, you state the transmission is an A500/42RH. This truck should have an A518/46RH.
Did you get the right parts for your transmission?

If memory serves correct the 46RH has some extra clutches and steels over the 42RH.

 

Searched and asked many pros and part stores with no luck. The truck drives fine, shifts fine and downshifts fine. There is little to no slip and no noise from tranny.

Here's the problem: The transmission wants to drive forward in every linkage selection PRND21 All. The parking paw wont let it move so if i give it some throttle it governs to 3k. In reverse it moves forward and giving it gas has had random effects - slam, shutter and die. Neutral will drive forward and drive is normal. Even with the O.D. off it acts properly.

I've recieved puzzled looks and more questions than answers. I origonally thought the transmission was a 46RE but none of the videos or parts fit. Till I found you tube with a dealership training video using the A500. Thats my valve body.

So I've cleaned out the valve body and while its out I'm going to check the selenoids and see if they are in range 25-35 with no more than 3 variance between. Then I'm going to readjust the Low Reverse band to 72 and back off four turns instead of two like the 46re calls for.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.