1995 Dodge Dakota, Automatic, 3.9L V6 Magnum

So my Dakota had that problem, where when I turn on the lights all the gauges fall, blinkers and brights lights turn on, and dash cluster back lights turn off.

So I was told that it was the solder points at the back of the cluster has solder points where the plugs in go in, well I don't have that. [Example video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GczhHgdUuI4#t=350).

[Here](http://imgur.com/a/etp0v) are pics of my board and what not. I'm stumped.

Edit: can't find the ground wire either...

Edit: [Video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdBo...ature=youtu.be) of problem

- First is lights off, blinker on, notice blinker, oil pressure gauge is high, fuel isn't on empty (sensor is broken in tank, so it should be on empty)

- Then I turn blinkers off, and lights on, in the quick second between, you can notice my oil pressure, and battery gauge are messed up. When they're on, you can see all gauges are messed up.

- Then lights on, blinker on, you can see that the light on the dash still blinks. (might be backwards, as in when light is off, blinker outside is on, and vice versa.)

- Then I turn the high beam on, you can see the high beam light go off, even though they're on.

All the lights outside act as they should.

Edit: [Wiring Diagram](http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...ps357fe4cc.jpg)


Edit: Found this: DODGE DAKOTA 1995 car safety problem was reported on .DODGE DAKOTA 1995, manufactured by DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORPORATION had a problem with ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:WIRING:INTERIOR/UNDER DASH . INSTURMENTATION CLUSTER RANDOMLY REVERSES POLIARITY WHEN LIGHTS ARE TUREND ON. INSTURMENT PANEL WILL NOT LIGHT UP, ODOMENTER STOPS, FUEL GAGE GOES TO EMPTY, TEMP GAGE JUMPD TO HOT, CHARGE INDICATOR DROPS TO NEGATIVE, EMERGENCY FLASHERS COMES ON, HIGH BEAM INDICATOR REVERSES. WHEN INSIDE LIGHTS ARE TURNED TO OFF THE INSTURMENT CLUSTER RETURNS TO NORMAL WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE LIGHTED PANNEL IS NOT ON. REPLACED LIGHT SWITCH ASSY. REAR TAIL LIGHTS. I SAKED THE DODGE DEALER ABOUT SERVICE BULITONS OR RECALLS. THE DEALER SAID THERE WERE NONE. THIS SITE SHOWS SBN:080600 PLUS SEVERAL OTHERS. DO ANY OF THESE PERTAIN TO MY SITUATION.Vehicle Identification Number (VIN):1B7GL23X9SW. Dodge Dakota 1995 problem was reported in MONTGOMERY, AL. Vehicle was using ANTI-LOCK BRAKES.Vehicle was using Cruise Control.Dodge Dakota 1995 drive type:RWD. FUEL TYPE: GAS.

[Here](http://car-and-safety.com/dodge-dako...nsturmentation cluster randomly reverses poliarity when lights are turend on. insturment panel will not light up, odomenter stops, fuel gage goes to empty, temp gage jumpd to hot, charge indicator drops to negative, emergency flashers comes on, hig)


edit: CLUSTER GROUND

Circuit Z1 from the instrument cluster left connector
provides ground for the illumination lamps and
indicator lamps. The termination point for circuit Z1
is the instrument panel right lower reinforcement
support.

if that's #46 on the diagram, I found that, and it's fine.

Edit: Wiring harness grounds just fine, tried to see which pins were bad on the board by wiggling them to no avail.

 

Also interested what the real issue is, and how to fix this. My 93 does this too. A good smack to the top of the dash usually fixes the issue.

 

i had this issue with my 95 neon... all gauges including tach speedo would stop working, i ripped out took out trusty soldering gun and reheated and melted every damn solder point i could see took a bit of time, put back in and all was great , my case it was a cold solder point on the board causing my issue , then again ... it was a neon lol

 

Well, no luck, all the solder points were good on my board, cleaned them up real good with some steel wool and alcohol. Turned it on and it was all good, will keep you guys updated within the week to see if it comes back or not.

I've heard the cab ground strap could be an issue too, currently looking for that.

 

all mine looked good to.. cleaning didn't help nothing i actually had to melt and resolder, assuming one of them was heating up had a crack and lost contact is what dealer told me, i physically removed the control board and resoldered everyhting never an issue after that. It was kind of like the issues the PCM has when they fail when they heat up truck died cool down starts up....

when i looked everything looked perfect ... but i hit em with heat anyway and problem was solved..lol

 

yeah, I probably should've soldered mine, but I'm selling it by july, won't get but like $800 out of it, hell put $1000 in parts in the damned thing, bought it for $1200, but then I flipped it on the driver's side, needs a box, driver's door, dent in the half cab taken out, and might as well replace both front fenders b/c they're a rusty, (farm truck), diff is clunky (going to blame it on the u joints), has 212k miles on it. But if I get another 1st gen I'll just steal the parts off of this one. But I really want a diesel, either ford or 2nd gen ram 4wd ofc. But then again, I really just want to blow the engine in this thing. I try to... go out every night and race it, for a little 3.9 this thing is damned fast, then again the trans doesn't like to shift to 3rd when I floor it lol, beat a 4.3L Vortec Chevy 1500, though I also manually shift and he thinks his truck is fast... funny. But beat a couple of Z28s, an audi, a cherokee, and plenty of ricers, even one that was turbo'd and got three car lengths to spool up. I'll have about $3500 for the truck, then I'll sell this one and use that money for mods/parts. Also has 4 brand new tires I'll be taking off, unless they pay me an extra $400. Idk, was my first vehicle, not too mad of all the money I lost, since I've learned so much.

/life story

 

I have a 94 that was doing the same thing about 4 years ago. Replaced the head light switch and fixed issue. Has not returned to date. I got the switch from Oreilly Auto BWD brand. Thats before I knew about Rock Auto. However I do not think it was that expensive.

 

Replacing the head light switch also corrected my problems.

 

interesting, I will definitely take a look, I did actually take that out, kinda when doing the cluster. Just would've thought it was a cluster problem, being that the tach still messes up when the blinker is in, maybe that's wired into the headlight switch though too. Thanks!