Have seen a couple posts of this but no resolution. Truck is a 1992 Dakota 4x4 LE with a 3.9L V6 @262K on both engine and transmission. While driving (Speed is not an element) the truck will randomly shut off, I will be traveling along and then basically the engine shuts down but everything electrical remains running. The oil light comes on when I come to a stop (Which I believe is typical behavior because the pump is no longer pumping). Typically I coast over to the side of the road as soon as possible. Usually the truck will not start, it will crank and what not but no start and after a few to 5 or 6 minutes it will crank back up as if nothing had happened. No visible check engine lights (Though I will jump the connector and see if anything arises)

Extraneous symptons/fixes done in the past. (Probably all non-related)

Currently the truck has the ABS/Brake lights on (I replaced rear speed sensor, no change)
The fuel gauge reports no fuel at a full tank and jerks around for the first 1/3 of a full tank after it finds whatever sweetspot to re-engage it.
I did a tune up a year ago where I replaced the coil, plugs and wires.
I replaced the PCM a year ago because the old one would no longer start the truck at all.
Sometimes the vents loose their directionality when loading the engine on a hill or accelerating (I believe this is a failing check vacuum check valve or cracked vac line)
Turn signals used to drop out but removing/reinserting their fuse seemed to correct the problem whenever it happened and its been a while since this has occured.
Exhaust ticks because of a broken stud on one of the manifolds.

 

Check you ignition coil. My connector on my ignition coil wasn't fully connecting because the clip was broken. Check the spark plug wires. Clean the inside and outside of the rotor cap with contact cleaner. Put a light coat of dielectric grease on the connectors and spark plugs. Invest into an inline spark plug tester. Check your fuel pressure. If you don't a pressure checker, relieve the pressure from the port on the fuel rail and hold on the port for 5 or more seconds. If it sprays at you, its a good thing. Cycle the key to the on position three times and leave in the on position. Your check engine should start flashing at you in morse code.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-96-codes.html

 

Only codes I get are 12,55 and if I try and pull the codes when the truck is having one of these episodes, I do not get a check engine light.

 

If you have not disconnected the battery cables in the last 50 start cycles, I'd start checking the power feed to the ECU. Code 12 says "Memory Power failure" which is code for "We dun lost juice in the last 50 start cycles boy!" *grins*

(Of course, if you've had the battery cables off, then that'll cause a 12.)

One more thing to check, due to age - the ignition SWITCH itself. Not the lock cylinder, but the electrical portion, the switch.

My 1988 started having trouble starting (wouldn't kick the starter over), and it was due to a failing switch. My 1991 Cougar picked up a nice "Won't run A/C, turn signals, Vehicle Maintenance Monitor, HEGOs, or a few other items" unless I jiggled the key just right, and THAT was THAT switch coming apart.

RwP

 

I hate to sound like a broken record, but check thatv. 3 wire spilce under the power distribution center. It is a known issue and listed In the FAQ.

 

I will look into the 3 wire splice, since I've been meaning to. However I would think it would cause problems starting out, not cutting off the engine randomly while driving. Usually when this gremlin occurs its like the computer has gone bye-bye for 2 to 5 or 6 minutes. IE engine will crank, but I dont get a check engine light in that time frame, then after sitting for that delay engine starts right up and truck runs onto the destination. I replaced the computer less than a year ago and would look at the computer's guts, but its covered in a thick layer of some sort of sealing crap. (I still have the old computer as well, it would let the truck crank, but no fire.)

 

I've heard of similar complaints being caused by a faulty Crank Position Sensor.

Intermittent electrical gremlins are the worst. I used to have a F**d and the manual called for a "wiggle test". Warm the truck up and just start wiggling (gently) connectors and splices under the hood until you get a response.

 

might check the hall effect pick up in the dizzy???????? could have issue when it warms up??

 

Did the splice fix. No change. Engine still randomly dies. However it seems like if you give the underhood fuse box a slap it expedites the return of the ecu

 

Try switching around the ASD or fuel pump relays and see if that makes any difference. The relays are all the same.