Dealing with the inevitable rust
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Rookie
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 75
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From: Missouri
Dealing with the inevitable rust
93 v6 Ext. Cab
So lately I've been doing a lot of repairs under the truck, and I noticed both my fenders.They're rusted out at the wells. So, because I'm cheap when it comes to aesthetics, I was thinking of receding the fenders back an inch, then putting proper fender flares. After putting on everything I can think of to prevent future rust. Does anyone have any advice on what to buy or howto take this foreward. Trying to keep this budget low, I have a set of stock fender flares I could use, so I'll try to use them somehow, I also have a large set of tools at my disposal.
So all advice is welcome!
So lately I've been doing a lot of repairs under the truck, and I noticed both my fenders.They're rusted out at the wells. So, because I'm cheap when it comes to aesthetics, I was thinking of receding the fenders back an inch, then putting proper fender flares. After putting on everything I can think of to prevent future rust. Does anyone have any advice on what to buy or howto take this foreward. Trying to keep this budget low, I have a set of stock fender flares I could use, so I'll try to use them somehow, I also have a large set of tools at my disposal.
So all advice is welcome!
Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
What part of the multiverse are you located at?
Plus, as a note, before shipping RockAuto has front fenders available for around $66 for the economy model (CAPA certified, the primo ones, are only about $121.) Check around, you may have a 20th Century Parts depot in your area, and they're not much more than RockAuto but there's no shipping required.
Also, the local U-Pull-It (Northwest LA / Central LA / Southwest Arkansas) has'em for about $30 each. You may have a U-Pull-It that's similarly priced.
And the pulled ones may even be the right color!
But - unless you excise it completely, back past the rusted area, the rust WILL continue. And the flares will just make it worse.
RwP
Plus, as a note, before shipping RockAuto has front fenders available for around $66 for the economy model (CAPA certified, the primo ones, are only about $121.) Check around, you may have a 20th Century Parts depot in your area, and they're not much more than RockAuto but there's no shipping required.
Also, the local U-Pull-It (Northwest LA / Central LA / Southwest Arkansas) has'em for about $30 each. You may have a U-Pull-It that's similarly priced.
And the pulled ones may even be the right color!
But - unless you excise it completely, back past the rusted area, the rust WILL continue. And the flares will just make it worse.
RwP
Grand Champion
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 7,435
Likes: 578
Remove all rust and fix it the right way! You can use a rust converter like por 15 to stop existing rust but removing it completely is the best way. I have seen people do the cover up and and it will rust beyond the flare if you do nothing to stop it.
All Star
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 752
Likes: 2
From: Southeastern Virginia
From my experience the rust around the lip of the front fenders tends to be due to dirt collecting in an area where the outer fender meets the metal of the inner fender. That area is toward the front side of the wheel opening, and about an inch or so from the lip. The two sheets of metal come together there and form a "trap" where crud collects and starts the rust process.
I had this on my '89. First I opened up the rust hole, then I had to dig, and blast with air, to get the dirt out before trying to repair the area. If you get it while it's still localized, and you remove all the rust, it's likely you won't have to deal with it again. I'd suggest filling the void with epoxy resin after removing the crud, then do the body work. If the rust has spread far along the lip, fender replacement is probably easier - and more lasting. Just my 2 cents.
I had this on my '89. First I opened up the rust hole, then I had to dig, and blast with air, to get the dirt out before trying to repair the area. If you get it while it's still localized, and you remove all the rust, it's likely you won't have to deal with it again. I'd suggest filling the void with epoxy resin after removing the crud, then do the body work. If the rust has spread far along the lip, fender replacement is probably easier - and more lasting. Just my 2 cents.
