Will check those things I know when we had the TB off so we could access map sensor easier to change it out it was a bit dirty underneath just carbon but not too bad.

We also noticed that when we take a vacuum line off at idle it starts to run better. Which is odd to my dad.

 

AHA I think you are close. That vacuum issue may mean you have an exhaust restriction. ie Bad Cat. try this page and there is also a diagnose a bad cat video off on the right side of this page. Seems like the link doesn't go through it just shows the video. ETCG has a lot of vids on YT if it doesn't show up at the end of this vid try searching "how to diagnose a bad catalytic converter"

 

Went out today and dad took a small section of pipe before the cat off and its still doing it. We are at a complete loss now.

 

IDK. I think Crank sensor and PCM now. But I expect something has been missed in the diagnosis process which I am unaware of. Here is a link to a test your crank sensor page. http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chr...-sensor-test-1 I'd start from the start and try to work out what changed before you started putting parts on it and diagnose from there. I did the whole plenum kit and sensor change rebuilt tranny and a lot of other stuff based on symptoms and the thing that changed how it ran most was putting in a new crank sensor after all of that since it was the only sensor I had not changed. It ran with the old one in it but the motor was still acting funny as far as my RPM's, they stayed way low. The other thing I did after all that work was go through and disconnect all the easily gotten to electrical connections and hit them with electromotive cleaner then lubed them with dielectric grease. Cleaning the PCM connection made a big diff too. I still had trouble and that is what lead me to the vacuum test for restrictions and the Temperature Cat test.

 

Well when it first started this I had a feeling it was iac from reading online so I got a new on online (eBay) which turned out to be for the wrong year as I later found out when it died and wouldn't start at all. Had it towed to garage and they said it was the iac and crankcase breather it ran and drove after they did that but still had the issue. We figure while we are doing all this the old 20+ year old parts were due for an upgrade anyway.

He's going to be getting one of those things tonight so we can test the vacuum tomorrow.
About the only parts we haven't touched are o2 sensor, pcm, tps, and crank sensor

 

Things have gotten considerably worse the past few days and it is now throwing codes 21 21 23 15 and 25

 

Do you know how to find the code definitions on the FAQ page? Here is a direct link as its on another page but the FAQ page is your friend. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-96-codes.html I cannot fathom what is causing the 15. You may have misread one code if you got two 21's but IDK if that is a fact. 21 indicates the O2 sensor isn't detecting properly which can be caused by a bad O2 Sensor or something being blocked at the EGR. Strange there is no EGR code. I'm baffled there but can suggest that you clean the EGR with some carb cleaner let it dry and put it back on. Mine was over 20 when I got it and the EGR was the only code it had... to start . It was very dirty and almost plugged up. You may need a new gasket after removing it. The Intake Air temp sensor is on the intake barrel near the front if you are facing the motor it will be on the left side at about 11o'clock. 25 is the IAC. The one I bought had instructions to make sure the business end was out at the same distance as the one I removed. This is achieved by turning it like a screw. Sorry that's only gonna work if you have the old one still. What I discovered when I finally spent the money on a SnapOn MT 2500 (eBay) is that the scanner lets you reset the IAC. That lets the PCU set it as you drive. If you get it running disconnect the battery for five minutes to reset the PCU. then drive it for several miles and check the codes again.

 

Solved . Ended up taking it to a garage and the distributor needed adjusted, slack was taken out of timing chain, vacuum leak was found and o2 sensor replaced. Runs like new again after all of that. And no more stalling as soon as he adjusted timing chain.

 

Good. How did he take the slack out of the timing chain? Distributor adjustment does not change the timing it changes when the injectors fire. That is another thing you can do with the MT2500. The PCM sets the timing. The O2 sensor being bad makes sense.

 

I'm curious about that too...