I replaced the computer today, still no start. I started just half heartedly retracing my steps and decided to recheck number 1 distributor rotor position in relation to #1 tdc cylinder one, found out that my distributor shaft isn't turning. Any advice on replacing distributors? I have lost its correct position in relation to tdc number one also.

 

Not sure on these distributors but I've had them on ford motors shear the pin that pins the shaft to the distributor.

 

I wish I would have thought to ask if you checked the codes before you changed the PCM. It is weird that you drove to the spot to change the wp and then it would not start after. ??? that still bugs me. Another question that comes up for me is How did you determine the shaft is not turning? here is a link with a description of timing the cam which is what you need to do http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/...uel%20Sync.pdf I think it would work with putting in a new distributor since the PCM will set the timing. You can get a Snap-On MT2500 on ebay or amazon for a few hundred, I got mine for $325ish. That will let you adjust the sync where it calls for the DRBIII and do a lot of other things. The standard is as close to 0 as possible. The dealers near me played stupid when I asked about the DRBIII or setting my injector sync.

 

With the distributor cap off, cranking the engine produced no rotation of the rotor. I took the distributor out, it is intact, no sheared pins, the flat tab at the bottom is intact, so the gear at the bottom, which has a slot in the center for the distributor shaft tab, isn't moving. My book shows nothing about the distributor. Should the gear be removable with needlenose? I hesitate to pull it out because it feels like something is holding it back. Anybody have anything detailed for the distributor in this model or similar ones? So close, yet so far.

 

BTW, thanks, onemore, for the link. Rereading it I see that that gear has something to do with the oil pump. Crap.

 

OK I have copied the removal reinstall of a distributor from the 95 FSM
The pics didn't copy. Hopefully this helps you. It also occurs to me that the coil should be replaced if it still doesn't start once the dizzy is fixed.

DISTRIBUTOR—3.9L/5.2L ENGINE
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Base ignition timing is not adjustable on
any 3.9L V-6 or 5.2L V-8 engine. Distributors do not
have built in centrifugal or vacuum assisted advance.
Base ignition timing and timing advance are
controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM).
Because a conventional timing light can not be
used to adjust distributor position after installation,
note position of distributor before removal.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Remove distributor cap from distributor (two
screws).
(3) Mark the position of distributor housing in
relationship to engine or dash panel. This is done
to aid in installation. Before distributor is removed, the number-one cylinder
must be brought to the top dead center (TDC)
firing position.
(4) Attach a socket to the Crankshaft Vibration
Damper mounting bolt.
(5) Slowly rotate engine clockwise, as viewed from
front, until indicating mark on crankshaft vibration
damper is aligned to 0 degree (TDC) mark on timing
chain cover (Fig. 10).
(6) The distributor rotor should now be aligned to
the CYL. NO. 1 alignment mark (stamped) into the
camshaft position sensor (Fig. 11). If not, rotate the
crankshaft through another complete 360 degree
turn. Note the position of the number-one cylinder
spark plug cable (on the cap) in relation to rotor. Rotor
should now be aligned to this position.
(7) Disconnect camshaft position sensor wiring
harness from main engine wiring harness.
(8) Remove distributor rotor from distributor shaft.
(9) Remove distributor holddown clamp bolt and
clamp (Fig. 12). Remove distributor from vehicle.

INSTALLATION
If engine has been cranked while distributor is removed,
establish the relationship between distributor
shaft and number one piston position as follows:
Rotate crankshaft in a clockwise direction, as
viewed from front, until number-one cylinder piston
is at top of compression stroke (compression should
be felt on finger with number one spark removed).
Then continue to slowly rotate engine clockwise until
indicating mark (Fig. 10) is aligned to 0 degree
(TDC) mark on timing chain cover.
(1) Clean top of cylinder block for a good seal between
distributor base and block.
(2) Lightly oil the rubber O-ring seal on the distributor
housing.
(3) Install rotor to distributor shaft.
(4) Position distributor into engine to its original
position. Engage tongue of distributor shaft with slot
in distributor oil pump drive gear. Position rotor to
the number one spark plug cable position.
(5) Install distributor holddown clamp and clamp
bolt. Do not tighten bolt at this time.
(6) Rotate the distributor housing until rotor is
aligned to CYL. NO. 1 alignment mark on the camshaft
position sensor (Fig. 11).
(7) Tighten clamp holddown bolt (Fig. 12) to 22.5
Nzm (200 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Connect camshaft position sensor wiring harness
to main engine harness.
(9) Install distributor cap. Tighten mounting
screws.
(10) Refer to the following Checking Distributor
Position.

CHECKING DISTRIBUTOR POSITION
To verify correct distributor rotational position,
connect the DRB scan tool to the data link connector.
The data link connector is located in the engine compartment.
Gain access to the SET SYNC screen on
the DRB.
WARNING: WHEN PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING
TEST, THE ENGINE WILL BE RUNNING. BE CAREFUL
NOT TO STAND IN LINE WITH THE FAN
BLADES OR FAN BELT. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE
CLOTHING.
Follow the directions on the DRB screen and start
the engine. With the engine running, the words IN
RANGE should appear on the screen along with 0°.
This indicates correct distributor position.
If a plus (+) or a minus (-) is displayed next to the
degree number, and/or the degree displayed is not
zero, loosen but do not remove the distributor holddown
clamp bolt. Rotate the distributor until IN
RANGE appears on the screen. Continue to rotate
the distributor until achieving as close to 0° as possible.
After adjustment, tighten clamp bolt to 22.5
Nzm (200 in. lbs.) torque.
The degree scale on the SET SYNC screen of the
DRB is referring to fuel synchronization only. It is
not referring to ignition timing. Because of this,
do not attempt to adjust ignition timing using this
method. Rotating the distributor will have no effect
on ignition timing. All ignition timing values are controlled
by the powertrain control module (PCM).

 

I am trying to find out what drives the gear that the distributor shaft inserts into. Cant find anything Dakota related, but on other cars it looks like the timing belt. I think the 5.2 has a chain, so am I looking at a spun key where the gear goes onto the shaft? The distributor drive gear is perpendicular to the camshaft, so there must be some king of differential drive happening in there.

 

I think we are getting out of my depth now. What I know of Dizzies is that they have a gear somewhere on the shaft and the Cam turns them. I don't think that applies to the Magnum motor I haven't had to dig in that far yet. It looks to me after seeing replacement distributors online that the oil pump slot the shaft end slips into spins the dizzy and I would be guessing from there.
I just called Hughes Engines. Dave said that the camshaft has a helical gear that turns an intermediate shaft which turns the oil pump and distributor. Honestly I hope its just a broken crank key. Make sure you use the right kind of puller that balancer wheel is not solid and you can break it if you try to use a puller that has grabbing arms instead of threaded attachments. Autozone loans them out.
If you do end up changing the timing chain there is a TSB on the magnum motors where they have added a TC tensioner since the OE design did not have one. It's cheap and pretty simple. You don't put the oil chain tab back on when you install it.

 

Yesterday I removed the right valve cover and had somebody turn the engine over, no valve movement at all. Starting the front end teardown tonight, depending on what I find, I'll be ordering a front gasket set plus whatever is broken: key, gear, chain....at least it finally makes sense. I'll try to figure out how to post pictures as I go.

 

I've tried to post replies a couple of times, they just delete. This is a test.