Mouldings and window trim
 

Where can I find the trim pieces that seal the roll up windows? I can't find a site that shows pics of what they are selling and IDK the nomenclature used for the various parts. Also any inexpensive replacement mirrors?

Are you referring to the weather stripping or beltlines? If the latter I bought these but haven't installed them yet so dont know how good they are. If weather stripping rock auto carries them.
http://precisionrestorationparts.com/i-8951156-beltline-weatherstrip-fits-1987-1996-dodge-dakota.html

Rock also has side mirrors for under $50

IDK what is weather stripping and don;t know what beltlines are. I want to replace the cracked part in the first pic. I call it the scraper. It looks to be all of one piece with the 1inch thick black plastic below it. I would like to replace all the sealing trim around the windows. The door seals look fine. EDIT OK I looked at the link. I can't really tell what they look like. They are calling it the weatherstrip I think that is what I am calling the scraper.

The part you're talking about is the beltline - either inside or outside. While the window is out to replace the outside beltline, you ought to go ahead and replace the window weathersealing; Precision Restoration sells all of it (use Robertmee's link and explore.)

Also, it's easy enough to figure out ... Google for an exploded parts diagram, and see what the official Mopar nomenclature and part numbers are. Such as, say, this diagram:

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...ssembly=618099

RwP

OK I'm gonna get the beltlines and glass channels. Thank You for the link robertmee.

Anyone have any mirror ideas? Best I have found so far is $85> a side.

As I mentioned above rock auto has them for less than 50. Otherwise check craigslist for someone parting out a Gen 1

Mea Culpa missed that.

I purchased those beltline weatherstrips from Precision Restoration, I believe I found them by RalphP's direction. They are EXCELLENT quality, much better than I expected for the price.

For the inner beltline I pulled the door card and flipped up the staples with a screwdriver and pliers, removed the old beltline, then reused the old staples through the same mounting holes.

For the outer beltline you actually might not have to remove the window. On my '93 there is only a single stop for the window bolted to the door. Remove the two bolts, pull the plastic stop out and the window will slide down out of your way enough to access the phillips screws holding the outer beltline on. However, I just pulled apart a door from an '88 and along with the aforementioned bolted on stop, there's this other stop riveted to the middle of the door. I decided I didn't need that stop and just drilled the rivets out. :D

edit: but if you're doing the glass channels then yeah window has to come out...I missed that the first read through.

Far as the mirrors go, if you're unhappy with the fading, I'd just spray paint or plastidip them. I wasn't about to drop a cent on new mirrors to replace my perfectly functional OEM ones, so I just plastidipped my faded mirrors silver.

Thanks Tbugden. I will wait until all parts arrive and just do each door all at once. I tried some restore stuff for the plastic and it just faded again in a few weeks. I have sprung for the mirrors. I'm in a place where I can right now which is why I am fixing the old stuff. Its still cheaper than buying a new truck. Maybe I'll look into plasdip? before I sell the old ones.

Yeah there you go I know what you mean about just buying new stuff, it feels good to have brand new stuff sometimes. Still cheaper than buying a new truck for sure.

Plastidip is pretty cool. It's like spray paint but it's easily peeled off if you don't like it. However, as long as you clean the surface well it will not come off easily by itself.

I didn't mean not to thank you Robertmee and RalphP. Thank You

Because a lot of us buy parts online I am going to post this. I received the Precision parts for the window beltline and channel and the Mirrors I ordered on RA. The Precision parts look good I have not opened the bags. The mirrors on the other hand look very cheap. I ordered the Dorman mirrors the picture on RA shows them to be textured like the OE. These are really shiny, the kind of shiny that begs dirt and bugs to stick to it and very cheap looking plastic that seems like it will scratch if I wipe it with a terry cloth. They also do not appear to be Dorman brand. There is no indication of what brand they are on the boxes they are in or on them. This is disappointing; RA has always been reliable before. Lets hope it was a mistake. I've emailed them and I'll let you guys know what comes of it.

Zoinks no sooner did I hit post I got my reply; "No, we cannot get you Dorman textured outside mirror(s) because Dorman does not offer them. Both mirrors you ordered are listed - on the more 'Info' page - as paintable. Since textured mirrors are NOT paintable, this tells you the surface of the mirror is smooth. So, what you received is correct. If you do not want them, please go to our Order Status & Returns page to get authorization for your return. For further information, please see our Help pages or click the link(s) below" I suppose its kosher but most people don't know that I certainly did not.

It cost me $5.39 for a return shipping label. Sort of painless. I found a pair with textured plastic for $36 less than these two. "Kool Vue" is the brand I'll let you know. I may look into restoration of the existing mirrors if these new ones turn out to be crap too.

Yeah, I've run into that a couple of times on my build with both Rock Auto and Parts Geek. They'll have a part listed wrong for my model year, and even though I point it out, they still won't waive the return charge. It's the risk we take for getting good prices and good selection most of the time. As an example, from Parts Geek I bought a set of shocks that they listed for a 90 Dak. What they failed to list was that it only fit 4wd. Didn't matter...cost me nearly half what I paid to return them.

Dang, I'd have given you 3/4's the price of those 4wd shocks! I need a set.

Well one mirror arrived this morning by USPS its also smooth! At least it was cheaper. The other one is coming by FedEx??? by end of business today. I'll wait to see if it is textured. If it is also smooth I will just install them. I just checked the tracking and its been changed to delivery on the 9th ??? Weird. Turns out this joint Discount Body Parts is also another hidden branch of autopartswarehouse. I posted a complaint about them a while back.

OK the second mirror came and it was smooth too. Now the autopartswarehouse scumbags are playing games with me. Each email is answered by a new person who does not address my last message and tell me every thing is fine they will exchange the mirrors then comes up with the excuse they want pictures that are perfectly clear. I told em I can't do pictures but I do know the difference between smooth and textured. Like I said in the thread I started about them avoid autopartswarehouse at all costs. I asked them to verify by actually having someone lay hands on a textured mirror and the response was to tell me the computer lists them! Some people .....

Updating. I am going to try painting my existing mirrors. If it looks ok I will send the new smooth ones back.
I just installed the Glass channel and beltline on the passenger side. I just removed the window crank and let it fall all the way down. The glass channel was a real pain and it turns out there is a chip out of the felt in the inside edge right by the mirror. Shazbat!!!!. I don't think I want to remove it and send it back. I will get to the other one tomorrow. No drilling the rivets there is a channel stop at the bottom of the channel that runs down the door closer side. Take it out and you can pull the channel out. Be careful it has sharp points. I got cut a few times. I haven't finished it up on the inside I'm still debating getting new panels for the door.
Anyone know why Rock Auto has a deal with two panels and a dash cap for like $289 in the Accessories section and in Interior they have separate panels for $181 each? Am I missing something?

I don't see the separate panels for either my 1988, or for a 1994.

But the combo pack includes both door panels and the dash top; the dash top by itself is about $111, so the door panels end up being $74 each, which doesn't strike me as being too bad.

RwP

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/d...DAKOTA+3.9L+V6
Use the link and choose Interior then select Door Panel. $181.79 for one
The accessories kit is actually $258.79 + shipping
As far as I can tell it is exactly the same product.

Well, the Door Panel is "per pair", not each. So one package of two for $181.79 .

The two door panels and the dash overlay are $258.79 .

Dash itself is $110.79 .

The extra of buying the dash overlay and the panels separate, instead of as a bundle, is due to three items, I bet - 1) Reduced packaging. 2) Reduced shipping charges. 3) A bundle discount.

If you need all three, get the bundle of all three. If you only need the overlay or the panels, get them instead. *grins*

Edit: I'll add that they probably color match better bought as a bundle, but no guarantee. That is, more likely it's the same batch of plastic being used if bought in one package.

RwP

My '93 has the mirror adjusters inside the cab, so the door cards have a hole in them for the adjuster cables to come through; then the adjuster is secured with a metal plate. Those panels, if the picture is accurate, will not work with my truck, and I assume probably not with a '94. Looks like the panels off the older ones with the mirrors that you adjusted from outside.

Umm ... That's what drills are for, innit?

That's what I did when I refit the non-remote manual door panels to the manual remote truck I have; just drill out the one hole I needed to fit the interior cover.

RwP

I figured I was missing something on the panels Ralph. They are the same as I have tbugden.
Does anyone know how to get that dam nut off the outside door handle. I hope this pic comes up when I post the link. That is not my truck in the pic but it is the same as. I can't get it to budge. Edit- I just sprayed it with liquid wrench.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...d32396e14202o0

Well easy enough to modify sure but just saying they don't work as is. To modify it so it's like the original you need a dremel and a cutoff wheel. Only reason I like the opening on the original is because I can remove the mirror without taking the door panel off. I like keeping factory shortcuts, lol...

That is a pain in the fricken ass to get off. It's not super tight but tight enough and you have basically no room to manipulate a wrench. Wish I could give you an easier solution but I just use channel locks, the smaller the better. It is regular threaded. Once you loosen it a little you'll be able to use your hands to back it all the way out, but it takes a while.

EDIT- IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO IT START EARLY IN THE DAY IF YOU ARE OUTSIDE YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT MIGHT HANG YOU UP AND FORCE YOU SPEND A LOT MORE TIME THAN YOU THOUGHT. THE FIRST ONE TOOK ME 5+ HOURS THE SECOND ONLY 3.

HA! For me it was the big 440's that worked. I think the liquid wrench helped.
OTAY I got her done.
I have manual hand cranks IDK how much of this applies to elec windows.
What I learned. The channel is a huge pain. Make sure you have good lighting. A garage with overhead lights would be best I was outside and it was a pain even with a trouble light. After removing the panel. What you have to do is remove the whole plastic liner, try to save it. If you can't get some good heavy plastic and glue it on when you are done. Then crank the window down and remove the 4 bolts around the crank.10mm It will come out of the window slot if you move it toward the latch side then take it out the big hole. Now you can move the window. If you are going to do the handle do it now I waited and regret it.
Take the two screws out of the latch side inside the channel. They are hard to see one is near the top one near the bottom edge of window opening. If you drop anything there is a hole in the bottom of the door, put tape over it to catch stuff. Don't leave the tape there it is an important drain. :)
Be careful this aluminum track has pointy bits poking out the back, I look like a cat went crazy on me. EDIT-THE TRACK IS CURVED AND VERY EASY TO BEND TRY TO BE PATIENT AND ONLY PULL UP NOT TOWARD YOU. If you feel like it at the bottom of this track there is a stop for the window, you can remove it with the two sheet metal screws in the bottom corner of the door. It drops off the bottom of the track and is easy to take out. It will give you more wiggle room.
Take the old channel seal out. Start from the front of the door take out the track last. Put the track in first. Get the track wrapped in the new glass channel materiel. there are holes for where the screws go. You can try to poke the points back through the new one (I suppose this makes it easier) I was losing light and angry from being cut so many time so I just flattened them. start at the top corner get the lips over where they go and make sure the channel is set all the way in. once you have that side in at the top corner for 8-10 inches get the top screw in the alum channel.
Then slowly work the glass channel down that side get the second screw in and set the track bottom bracket back in. OH yea there are two plastic track guides on the window. they snap on. I lightly coated them with vaseline I also sanded the track and coated it. I used a 6 inch block of 2x4 to hold the window up off the bottom enough to set the bottom track bracket and keep the window track guides in the track.
work the glass channel across the top and down the other side. Don't freak out the cuts for where it meets the window base on the other side may not be in the right spot just push the channel down and make sure it goes over the window and that the window is in the track on this side. You can fix the cuts with a new blade in your razor knife. I found the new glass channel slide down easily as held the window up and pulled from under it. Then I made sure it was all the way in and set the beltline. and put everyting back together. Did I forget to mention taking off the beltline? You do that right after your remove the crank.
I painted the mirror. Cleaned it, Sanded it with 220, primed sanded 220, primed twice more then two or three coats of paint and two coats of matt clear coat. I added a pic of the driver side for comparison.

EDIT- I just did the driver side. This time instead of trying to pull the water dam off I cut it inside the glue line. It was much easier to tape it back up with duct tape. Its much neater looking. You can poke holes through the spots for the beltline or just move the plastic a bit.
This did not go as the passenger side did. For some reason the crank would not come out of the track when I undid the 4 bolts. I had to remove the glass track bottom stop on the latch side and then pull it (the window track) all the way out to get the window free. There is another bolt for the track at the front of the window which will give play too. Handle went easily. Track and glass channel went back in much easier than last time and I used the pointy bits that cut my hands so bad on the other side. :)
I had a chip in the felt on the passenger side after I got it installed. I emailed precision to see if they would replace it. Hate to do all that work and then have a crap channel. I'll update when they respond probably tuesday the 6th.

for the handle undo the big nut first. On the lock set in the handle. You can remove the clip holding it in place (after the big nut is off the handle will poke out the outside) and take the lock set out inside the door then it will come off the lock rod This way you don;t have to worry about the C clip and then put it back into the slot of your new handle or if you want to paint the ones you have. The latch rod comes off easier from the outside. I removed the plastic clip from it on the new handle and put it on the rod then inserted it into the hole where it goes in the handle once I had it in place with pretty hard pressure and a flat head screwdriver. EDIT- I PUSHED THE LATCH ROD WITH THE SCREW DRIVER INSIDE THE DOOR. The big nut will tighten (once you get it started rasa frasin fricka frackin(*&^!%) with a screw driver. You'll see once you get it out it is made just right for it.

Looks good bud. Thanks for the write-up on the channel seals. I probably shoulda done mine while I did the beltline seals but didn't really want to drop the coin at the time. Also it seemed a little intimidating to be honest...nice to confirm it's possible.

Your write up covers stuff that Just Isn't In the FSM ... I give you my thanks!

I'm about to do mine, along with beating out some minor dents on the driver's side ... they've got a "All you can carry for $100" sale coming up and have a really nice 1993 Dakota in the boneyard *grins* Too bad I can't carry the bench, the dash pieces, possibly the dash itself, the interior door panels, AND the 5 speed manual at one time ...

RwP

It helps if you are too stupid to know its too hard. :) Thanks Ralph.

Additional info. Today

I wrote this up and tried to post it and got that “Additional info. Today” post out of it. I rewrote it in edit and posted and got nothing. ?? Third time the charm? NOPE. 4th try. I drove it today and noticed the driver beltline was not tight. I tested the one screw I could reach easily (I have not put the panels back on yet) and it was stripped. I dropped the crank and stop block and all of them were like this. I went to the store and found out the screw is a #8 about 3/8 long. So I went to a fastener store and got 5 #10 screws. Went home dropped the window crank and stop block again and 4 of the 5 went in tight. When I got it all back together and was going to finish the errand I forgot I noticed the top corner of the glass channel was not sitting down right. I must have moved it when I dropped the crank and window stop twice. I unscrewed the top screw in the alum channel and using a big flat screw driver in one of the cutouts for the pointy bits I pushed it up some. It helped. The rain is coming so I closed it up for the day and will go at it tomorrow. I’ll probably remove both screws from the alum channel and go at it that way.

The Precision restoration guy just got back to me. After asking if the driver side was OK he is sending me a new glass channel for the passenger side. Pretty awesome service if you ask me.

I got an email from Precision the replacement glass channel is on its way. The coverlay panels arrived and I was surprised to find out they do not have the OE connectors. The OE has Spring like things that hook into the back side of the panel. The coverlay has holes in it and supplied screws. You are supposed to align the hole in the "triangle area" and the arm rest hole and fix the screws tightly. Then drill through the other holes in the panel with a 9/64ths drill bit!
I feel like this is an intentional deception as one can see the holes in the info page when I went back to check (but missed entirely when I first purchased it) but there is no mention of having to drill holes in the sheet metal of the door.

That about the drilling of the holes is good to know ... I'll be pulling good doors (no cracked in the hinge welds!) this weekend, with good door panels, so I no longer want those, but still ...

RwP

Thing is mine are cracked near the lock and the beltline is pulled away. This new panel doesn't have the chrome edge along the beltline. Let's hope I have a 9/64ths bit.

Removed and replaced the damaged new passenger glass channel. Here’s some pics. It started raining as I was taping up the water dam. It was just a drizzle

Finally got the Coverlay door panels on. They don't look bad and the belt line is very nice. As for 9/64ths bit its just over 1/8th and since my 9/64th broke on the first hole a 1/8 bit works fine.