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1st Gen Fuel Cut-Off Switch

Old Jul 31, 2016 | 10:19 PM
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Default 1st Gen Fuel Cut-Off Switch

So since none of my manuals seem to give a damn bit of info on this, I'm stuck. I've replaced the fuel pump assembly, the pump itself, wiring, relay, fuel rail, all injectors, and even the ign switch but for some reason it only wants to kick in when it wants to kick in. I know constant 12.04v is getting to the pump w/ the ign feed, and 12.32v is getting to the prime feed. My only other guess is the fuel cut off switch but I can't seem to find it. Any ideas on what's going on and location of the switch? This is on a '92 Dakota V6 4x4 46RE Auto.
 

Last edited by Suzonda; Aug 9, 2016 at 11:49 PM.
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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 10:43 PM
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On the FAQ page about halfway down there is a diagram of the relay box. The fuel pump relay is probably what you are looking for. The relay box is next to the battery on the driver side over the wheel well. I am also aware of this TSB in my research to figure out why my fuel gauge would not work. I did not have to do it. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/08-33-94.htm
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 12:07 AM
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I already know where all component locations are since I've redone the master fuse panel like 5 times in the past 2 months. But everything at the relay block is fine. Ground is fine, Ign is fine, 12v+ is 12.89v, and the relay clicks. Just the pump isn't power but ONLY if it turns a left hand corner then the truck is shut off.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 08:05 AM
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My dad new a guy that had that same turning and dying issue with an older car...it was a loose ground.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 01:27 PM
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I have a ground block wired at every major harness bolted right tho the frame. Ground isn't an issue here. It's something along the lines of someone severely effed up and need to be shot in the knee...
 
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 11:18 PM
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, no "cut off switch", that was Ford that had that. they called it an "inertia" switch and would kill power to the fuel pump in a wreck so gas would not spill out on the ground,
they were basically a "reset" switch, some would trip on a pothole..... but Dodges do not have that.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Suzonda
So since none of my manuals seem to give a damn bit of info on this, I'm stuck. I've replaced the fuel pump assembly, the pump itself, wiring, relay, fuel rail, all injectors, and even the ign switch but for some reason it only wants to kick in when it wants to kick in. I know constant 12.04v is getting to the pump, and 12.32v is getting to the prime feed. My only other guess is the fuel cut off switch but I can't seem to find it. Any ideas on what's going on and location of the switch? This is on a '92 Dakota V6 4x4 46RE Auto.

You don't say what happened to make you replace all those parts. I don't know which manuals you have, but if you can't find what you're looking for, maybe it doesn't exist. And no, we don't have any idea what's going on, because you haven't told us. What is the prime feed? You sound very frustrated. Just calm down, take a deep breath, and step back from it for a little bit. I understand your frustration, and we can help, but we need more information than we have to be able to help you. How are you getting constant voltage to the pump if the engine isn't running? Some of the things you speak of need some background information for us to see the problems you are working on.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by volaredon
, no "cut off switch", that was Ford that had that. they called it an "inertia" switch and would kill power to the fuel pump in a wreck so gas would not spill out on the ground,
they were basically a "reset" switch, some would trip on a pothole..... but Dodges do not have that.
"Cut Off" switches aren't specifically and only designated for inertial or impact related incidents. I've seen them tapped in to ABS systems, ('92-'96 Buick Century), emergency shutoff systems, (Nissan, Daihatsu, Pontiac, Toyota, many more), security systems (Most 21st century vehicles) all from factory. A cut off switch only shuts off the power feed to the pump. Nothing more, nothing less.
 

Last edited by Suzonda; Aug 9, 2016 at 11:51 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Friar Tuck
You don't say what happened to make you replace all those parts. I don't know which manuals you have, but if you can't find what you're looking for, maybe it doesn't exist. And no, we don't have any idea what's going on, because you haven't told us. What is the prime feed? You sound very frustrated. Just calm down, take a deep breath, and step back from it for a little bit. I understand your frustration, and we can help, but we need more information than we have to be able to help you. How are you getting constant voltage to the pump if the engine isn't running? Some of the things you speak of need some background information for us to see the problems you are working on.
As already stated the cause of the replacement parts is the issue itself. I've told a lot. It the matter of the reader actually understanding what's going on which it's very clearly explained.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2016 | 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Suzonda
As already stated the cause of the replacement parts is the issue itself. I've told a lot. It the matter of the reader actually understanding what's going on which it's very clearly explained.
Originally Posted by Suzonda
So since none of my manuals seem to give a damn bit of info on this, I'm stuck. I've replaced the fuel pump assembly, the pump itself, wiring, relay, fuel rail, all injectors, and even the ign switch but for some reason it only wants to kick in when it wants to kick in. I know constant 12.04v is getting to the pump w/ the ign feed, and 12.32v is getting to the prime feed. My only other guess is the fuel cut off switch but I can't seem to find it. Any ideas on what's going on and location of the switch? This is on a '92 Dakota V6 4x4 46RE Auto.
Well, what !I! get is that you're getting voltage to the pump.

What I have to PRESUME since you never say, is that the pump isn't running.

So I have to ask, if you're getting voltage to the pump and the pump isn't running, why are you chasing possible (and non-existent!) cut off switches when your testing tells me that the pump has failed?

And if that's not the situation, exactly what's happening, or not happening, that your're trying to fix? You have never stated that; and unfortunately my crystal ball is rather cloudy today *grins*

RwP
 
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