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Truck dies occasionally, starts right back up; 02 Sensor replacement

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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 03:24 AM
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Default Truck dies occasionally, starts right back up; 02 Sensor replacement

Okay, so I have three separate issues I'm not sure how to deal with!

1st off, which would help turn off my damned check engine light and likely help it stop running rich, is replacing my O2 sensor! I'm sure many of you have done this, any tips or tricks for it? It seems like it's really in a difficult spot!

2nd off, sometimes my truck will just die. It hasn't happened to me while I'm driving (yet, fingers crossed so it doesn't). It usually happens at an intersection when I'm waiting for the light to change. It'll die, and then I'll throw it into park and it'll start right up. IAC valve, maybe? I'm a little low on tranny fluid, but that likely wouldn't cause that, would it? I'm hoping it's not the torque converter.

The third one is my brake caliper! The caliper is fine, but one of the holes where the caliper bolts into is stripped. My dad says I need a helicoil kit but I don't know the size or how these work, really. Can anyone explain this to me?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 06:33 PM
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You can do the O2 sensor easily enough on flat ground. It's easier if you jack it up but you should block the wheels and set it on a jack stand first. IDK about the dying. You should read the FAQ page it has most of the common problems and solutions. It will also explain how to get your codes by using the key and watching the chk engn light. You might want to check codes before spending money. You can also clean the IAC valve with carb cleaner and a wire brush. Make sure to have it extended the same as it was when it came out after. It screws in and out to set it.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 07:04 PM
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depends on if its 2 or 4 o2 sensors if its the 4 make sure you jack up the front take off wheels and remove the wheel well liners if its the front. Also go to your auto parts store and either buy 11.99 o2 sensor tool or rent theirs its free if they have it just leave a deposit you get it back when you return the tool. i went beyond and bought a flex head ratchet.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 11:14 PM
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Take the caliper bolt to the store.

They will have a helicoil set that fits that thread/pitch/size bolt.

You drill out with the included drill bit, tap with the included tap (yes, get the whole kit, not just the HeliCoil insert), insert the HeliCoil, twist the tang off, and presto, new steel threads.

What year, engine, and is it California or Federal emissions? Those all three will sometimes affect how many and where the O2 sensor(s) is/are.

As to the dying - I second onemore94dak - code read, and see what the actual code is, before you toss O2s at it.

(They may not be a bad idea ANYWAY; they're only supposed to be good for about 60,000 to 90,000 miles.)

RwP
 
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Old Jan 13, 2017 | 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by onemore94dak
You can do the O2 sensor easily enough on flat ground. It's easier if you jack it up but you should block the wheels and set it on a jack stand first. IDK about the dying. You should read the FAQ page it has most of the common problems and solutions. It will also explain how to get your codes by using the key and watching the chk engn light. You might want to check codes before spending money. You can also clean the IAC valve with carb cleaner and a wire brush. Make sure to have it extended the same as it was when it came out after. It screws in and out to set it.
I've checked the codes by cycling the engine before! So I know for sure regardless my O2 sensor needs to be replaced and it's causing my truck to run rich. The one code it actually had that I'm not sure what's causing is injector circuit control failure or something like that. Maybe that's why my truck dies occasionally. I've no clue what would cause that though.

@RalphP, it's CA emissions sadly. I know where the O2 sensor is, however getting to it is a real pain in the *** and I was wondering what others use to get it out and replace it.

Forgot to add, it's a '93 with the 5.2l
 
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Old Jan 13, 2017 | 04:30 AM
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Heh. My 1988 was in such bad shape, the muffler shop welded a new bung on and I put a new one beside the old one, leaving the old one disconnected!

I hope yours isn't in such bad shape by now.

What exact code(s) is/are it producing when you do the key dance?

RwP
 
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Old Jan 13, 2017 | 09:51 AM
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I forget the exact size. It was 3/4 or 7/8 somewhere in that range. You can find out when you buy the new one. Tip-Don't undo the wire on the new one until You have it screwed in all the way. I have the 3.9 but I can't imagine yours is much harder to get at. Mine has one and its in front of the CAT on the tail of the Y pipe. It is tight but you can get it done. http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/faults/code-27.html
 
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Old Jan 14, 2017 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RalphP
Heh. My 1988 was in such bad shape, the muffler shop welded a new bung on and I put a new one beside the old one, leaving the old one disconnected!

I hope yours isn't in such bad shape by now.

What exact code(s) is/are it producing when you do the key dance?

RwP
I believe I got 21, 27, 51, and 52. I might be mistaken on those last two, I'll double check for sure later.

Originally Posted by onemore94dak
I forget the exact size. It was 3/4 or 7/8 somewhere in that range. You can find out when you buy the new one. Tip-Don't undo the wire on the new one until You have it screwed in all the way. I have the 3.9 but I can't imagine yours is much harder to get at. Mine has one and its in front of the CAT on the tail of the Y pipe. It is tight but you can get it done. http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/faults/code-27.html
I'm pretty sure it's 7/8, I've attempted (poorly) to remove it once lol. Also, that link refers to TBI and turbo engines. Would mine be similar to the TBI?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 09:19 PM
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If you have injectors and a throttle body its TBI. That site will tell you about your vehicle if you search it.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 09:47 PM
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They are all similar in that they arel 18mm thread and take a 7/8 wrench or socket to remove them
some are 1 wire and some are 4 wire. I usually cut the wires at the end of the old sensor and get either a box wrench or socket onto it and just use an open end to install.
 
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