92 Dakota brakes
Champion
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,724
Likes: 153
Thanks for that piece of information, I hadn't heard of anyone having so much trouble with the helicoils before.
For an even less labor intensive possibility, here's an older thread that mentions "oversize" guide pins from NAPA as a possible alternative. I would be a little skeptical of this approach, but you can look into it if they're still available:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...uide-pins.html
For an even less labor intensive possibility, here's an older thread that mentions "oversize" guide pins from NAPA as a possible alternative. I would be a little skeptical of this approach, but you can look into it if they're still available:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...uide-pins.html
Record Breaker
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 1
one other piece of the puzzle I noticed the last go round of bleeding. When bleeding the rears the pedal goes a certain distance and is very firm...then when my partner opens the bleeder the pedal goes clear to the floor. When doing the fronts however when the bleeder is opened the pedal goes a little further but not to the floor like bleeding the rear. Don't know if that's normal and due to the prop valve...but it's behaved the same on two diff prop valves.
Last edited by robertmee; Jul 5, 2017 at 10:55 PM.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 704
Likes: 1
Thanks for that piece of information, I hadn't heard of anyone having so much trouble with the helicoils before.
For an even less labor intensive possibility, here's an older thread that mentions "oversize" guide pins from NAPA as a possible alternative. I would be a little skeptical of this approach, but you can look into it if they're still available:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...uide-pins.html
For an even less labor intensive possibility, here's an older thread that mentions "oversize" guide pins from NAPA as a possible alternative. I would be a little skeptical of this approach, but you can look into it if they're still available:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...uide-pins.html
Just go to any parts store and tell them your dodge caliber bolts are junk. They'll know what to give you. Cheap, quick and easy. Highly recommend this method. Unless the whole is too far gone.
All Star
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 752
Likes: 2
From: Southeastern Virginia
You may be right....sometimes I can lock the rears about the time the pedal is hitting bottom. The fronts bleed fine as far as I can tell. The calipers were from rock auto....don't remember if they were Cardone or raysbestos or other. But they looked like the old ones I took off. I'm guessing I'm getting no caliper action to the front...but I know they're getting fluid as when bleeding they flex everytime the pedal is pumped...just don't seem to be applying any pressure to the rotor.
one other piece of the puzzle I noticed the last go round of bleeding. When bleeding the rears the pedal goes a certain distance and is very firm...then when my partner opens the bleeder the pedal goes clear to the floor. When doing the fronts however when the bleeder is opened the pedal goes a little further but not to the floor like bleeding the rear. Don't know if that's normal and due to the prop valve...but it's behaved the same on two diff prop valves.
one other piece of the puzzle I noticed the last go round of bleeding. When bleeding the rears the pedal goes a certain distance and is very firm...then when my partner opens the bleeder the pedal goes clear to the floor. When doing the fronts however when the bleeder is opened the pedal goes a little further but not to the floor like bleeding the rear. Don't know if that's normal and due to the prop valve...but it's behaved the same on two diff prop valves.
http://ramchargercentral.com/vehicle...etering-valve/
Otherwise, with a strong flow of fluid coming to the front from a new MC, those calipers ought to be clamping down hard.