Hello Everyone, I am new to this whole forum thing. Thought i would give it a try as I'm doin some DIY suspension work on my 96 Dakota 2WD.

Ok so, Ill start by listing all the parts i know it needs:
- upper and lower control arm bushings
- upper and lower ball joints
- tie rod ends
- sway bar linkages (not sure if thats what you call them)
- struts

Ive got a little bit of experience with minor suspension work on other vehicles. I have watched a bunch of videos online, I've gathered all the necessary tools (i hope), I've got the Haynes manual, and I'm feeling buff. However, i have never used or worked with bushing and ball joint presses. is the lower easier/harder then the upper? Is this something that can be done semi efficiently? or should i save myself the frustration and just replace the whole control arm?

Also where is the best place to get the listed parts?? Online? or can i go to the auto store and get them?

Any ideas, advice, personal experiences, or sources of info is greatly appreciated!

 

Well, I can tell you from first hand recent experience, as just the past 2 weeks, I replaced everything you mentioned.

For the ball joints and tie rod ends, go with Moog from Rock Auto if you plan on keeping the truck awhile. If it's something you only seeing having a few years, then go with the cheaper driveworks or ACDelco parts.

For the Sway bar end links, the sway bar bushings, and the control arm bushings, go with energy suspension. They make kits for our Dakotas.

The lower ball joints are easier to get out than the uppers. Not enough room on the uppers to get a c-clamp press in. More room to operate on the lowers. I used a couple of pickle forks to knock the lowers out. I used a ball joint press to remove the tie-rod ends, but the press wasn't big enough for the ball joint. For the uppers it was easiest to remove the CA and press out the bushings.

If you are replacing the CA bushings, you're going to be removing the control arms. In that case, I would use a standalone press. If you don't have one, you can try a c-clamp press like you can borrow from Advanced Auto or Autozone. But use penetrating oil and let them soak. Mine were so rusted in, it took my 12 ton press to get them out of the uppers.

The sway bar bushings and end-links are very easy to change. Just a couple of 1/2" wrenches for the end-links, and 9/16" for the sway bar bushings. Be sure to grease them good before putting back in, or your sway bar will squeak.

I wouldn't replace the CA, and I don't think you can even buy them anyway. As long as it's not bent, re-use them.

All in all, it took me about 6 hours to replace all uppers/lowers and tie-rods. But I had the right tools, a pneumatic impact wrench and 12-ton press, a lift and jack stands. If it's your first time, plan on a full 2 days. The hardest part you'll probably struggle with other than pressing out the bushings, is when you get ready to re-install the lower ball joints. Once you press them in, you will need a jack of some sort to lift the CA against the coil spring to get the ball joint stem back in the CA hole. The spring will be under tension and it's stiff...not something you can lift without mechanical assistance. You can try to let the weight of the car do it, but trying to lower your car off a jack while lining up the stem to the hole isn't easy and IMO a bit dangerous. Better to have a second jack.

Oh, and lastly, the Haynes manuals are usually garbage. Get yourself an actual Factory service manual. Although I will say, for the ball joints and tie rods, I didn't really need it. There's enough Youtube videos if it isn't apparent to you what to do.