My 95 Dakota SLT 4x4 had a no start issue and a dying issue. Never started when CEL (check engine light) did not come on with key. It would run sometimes if CEL light first came on. replaced crank position sensor. replaced the relays, then replaced ECU with a NAPA remanufactured one. CEL light came on then started but had issues with ignition dropping out. Replaced distributor cap and rotor and wires. Same problem. Cleaned throttle body and replaced idle control sensor, checked fuel pressure at rail (43psi), throttle control sensor, MAP sensor, O2 sensor, cam position sensor (under distributor cap). Of course, I tested each replacement incrementally before moving on to the next sensor. I finally decided that it was failure of the remanufactured ECU when it heated up. I was getting code 27 with the cycling of the key. I knew that the injectors were working because it would run great at any speed and then ignition would intermittently drop out. I figured it was the injector driver and I replaced the ECU with another remanufactured one (NAPA again) and this one fixed it, so far. A mechanic told me that ECUs can fail within the resin filling. I think they just replace the integrated circuit chips when they remanufacture them.

 

The blower motor resistor works fine, since i had to already replace it once, but, im not sure how it even goes through the resistor, since, what the PO did was ran a wire directly from the battery, through a fuse holder, directly to the power in on the heater controls, which lead me to assume that the blower motor resistor is connected after the heater control switch, but, that has worked that way the entire seven years i have owned it, so that isnt as much a concern as my light issues are, especially since it is due for inspection soon. I pulled a light wire harness today from a U pull yard, and now i have turn signals, the horn works, or did, until the horn itself died, after sounding like a dying bird, and a few other issues cleared themselves up, but, now i have no running light on the drivers side, and, the turn signal on that side (the smaller bulb) doesnt work, which may only be the bulb itself. My brother said that if i bring it to his shop after hours tomorrow, he will help me figure it out. I figure, since the replacement harness cleared up a lot of the issues, and i now only have that one issue, the $16 i paid for it was worth it, even if my brother has to fix a couple wires in it.

 

You really should start your own new thread about this.

 

Well, the switch and the resistor are between the fan and ground, so yeah, the bypass would work.

This shows up in the wiring diagrams in the factory service manual.

I end up sounding like a broken record - but get one! The Chrysler Corp one. Or at least a subscription to AllDataDIY (or EAutoRepair.NET - the Mitchell 1 DIY site; but I don't know for sure they'll have them, I've never subscribed there.)

As to the lights - well, if it's a bad bulb, you'll also lose the side marker in the front since it's between the two wires (park and turn), and does its wig wag action due to the way the wiring works.

Fix the turn signal first, then worry about the side light.

Did you also get the turn/side light pigtail when you got the rest of the harness? That can also go bad, especially on the driver's side, due to battery fumes sifting down and corroding the wiring right there. Don't forget to use dielectric grease there to help keep the battery acid fumes away.

RwP

 

Yeah, sorry. Somehow I thought I was in a relevant thread - not!

 

I dont know what you thought, but, this is about a lighting issue i am having, not about a bad ECU, since i never once said anything about my truck not running right. In fact, in the seven years i have owned it, it has never not once failed to start, or have driveability or reliability issues, except for the constant lighting issues i have with it.

 

I have the FSM, but, when it comes to wiring of any kind, i dont touch it. I am colorblind to an extent, so some colors all look the same to me, hence how the one and only time i messed with any kind of wiring, i caught the vehicle on fire, so, now, i will look online for advice, and, when it is anything to do with wiring, i let my brother know what is said, since he does all my wiring for me.

 

Then hand the FSM's wiring diagrams to your brother.

Or you can read them; they color code is textual (PK/BK for pink with a black tracer, for instance), so you can follow that, and your brother can verify that the wire is pink with black, not violet with green (or whatever).

And use that as a sanity check; you'll find all kinds of talk in the Internet. Some of it is even true.

RwP

 

I already looked through the wiring diagram, and found that the wires that run to the marker lights are light green (turn signal), tan, black/yellow, and black. Now, i just have to get him around to figure out which one isnt working ( he was gonna do it today, then ended up working extra hours). Im betting its the ground, since, after redoing all the grounds on the truck, i may have left a few loose here and there. It seems every year though, right before inspection, i end up with some kind of lighting issue. Last year it was license plate lights, because the harness was completely corroded, the year before, it was rear turn signals, the year before it was odd issues with the headlights. This year has been the worst though. I had brake light issues, hazard switch issues, headlight switch issues, and now front turn signals and running lights.