Rather than try to find a driver drop solid front axle and pay a premium for it, are there any mods for the 7.25" IFS, specifically regarding durability?

I'm talking bigger tie rods, stronger CVs, etc.

I ask because when I built up my '96 Trooper, I was told it'd be a good idea to get some beefier tie rods. I was given part numbers on rockauto for F-150 tie rod pieces and that was that; they fit exactly how the stock ones did, but were stronger.

While we're at it, are the 5 lug hubs found on some older dakotas stronger than the 6 lug ones I have? I'd like to run 33s or 35s without having to replace things every week.

Thanks.

 

There are not many well-known upgrades for the Chry 7.25 at least to me.
But let me tell you, I've had 33's on the stock drivetrain for years. I never broke any tie rods or CV axles. But I have torn up the front ring and pinion several times, it is the weak point of the drivetrain. But I don't take it easy on it when I'm offroading, I did horse beat it from time to time. If you don't beat on it, it will survive 33's.

If you did plan on a SAS, most driver side axles are not the expensive if you know where to find them, like Craigslist or a You Pull It type of Junk Yards. I got mine Dana 44 from an 80's Jeep Grand Wagoneer from UPullIt with the leaf springs and brakes all complete for $200.

 

Is there anything to do with the 7.25" to save the R/P?

 

Again not much to do.
But in my case, I did have 4.11:1 gears which has a small pinion, which is weaker. The lower ratio (Higher numerically) rind and pinions have smaller pinions, so if you have stock ratio's 3.55 is the typical ratio, so it would have a decent size pinion. Also, I do have a beefed up 5.9 Magnum with high torque which can put the drivetrain under stress.

If you're worried about it, take it to a shop and have the ring and pinion inspected for correct preload and tooth contact pattern, that will ensure you're in the best condition possible.

 

The real issue with the 7.25 is that it is a super light duty differential. The 7.25" ring gear is too small to handle much power. That is why people upgrade. Not much you can do within the constraints of the size of the differential.

 

Instead of fabbing all the stuff for a D44 swap, would the D35 IFS from a 2nd gen dak carry over somewhat? The 29 spline front and rear would be stronger anyway, and the D35 front has *gasp* OPTIONS

 

I rebuilt the front diff in mine, new bearings throughout, kept the original gears. Pinion bearings were pitted badly especially the one closest to the yoke.