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So after getting the last of the brackets off I decided to clean up a small section on both frame rails where the hitch bolts in. I cleaned it, prepped the metal to get it ready for the rust converter, then masked it off so you guys can see the before and after. I used total solutions rust converter. It's no acidic, bio-degradeable, and converts the surface to a primed and paint able surface. For all the nay sayers about rust converter out there.... It's your own fault if the product doesn't work. If you dont clean all the loose surface rust off with a grinder and wire wheel then properly clean the surface then of course it's not going to work. So please stop telling people the stuff doesn't work because you were to lazy to read instructions and do the job right. Here's some pics of the surface prepped and just after applying the rust converter. As for prep, a very hard wire wheel on my 41/2 inch grinder, degreaser, hot water, then wax n grease remover. Pretty standard stuff. Cure time on this stuff is 48 hours at 70 degrees. I put this on and it's 35 degrees in my garage but I know it'll work, use this stuff all the time. Once it's cured all you gotta do is scuff it, clean it with some warm soapy water, let it dry then paint it with whatever paint you're using. This round I'm gonna use Eastwood original satin black chassis paint.
Goes on white, starts turning purple, then will be a black primer when it's done. I didn't lay it on super thick so my coverage might not be that great. Couldn't find my paint brushes.
Here's how it looks after the rust converter has dried and cured for 24 hours.looks ok but I'm gonna throw a skim coat on it before I go out of town tomorrow just to add a little extra protection. I'll stuff those sections and get them painted when I get back on the 2nd. Need to prep my hitch as well for converter and paint.
Got bored today because I'm waiting on parts for my 93. It was 53 degrees outside and I felt like working. So 8 rusty bolts (3 of which I broke) and and hour later I had the bed off my truck. Did it without help too. Hooked a tow strap to the tailgate end of the bed and used my engine hoist to lift it up then lifted the cab side by myself and just wheeled it outside like it was nothing. So now I'm completely stripping the back half of the frame. I'll be grinding off all the rivets and removing all of the brackets and braces then it's time for lots of grinding with the wire wheel. I've already checked the frame very closely. Even went around smacking it with a hammer knocking rust scale off. Didn't find any holes or thin spots, just alot of rust scale and dirt. One of my tailpipes rusted off the end of the flowmaster, the hangers are junk. All in all it'll take some time and work but by the time I'm done it should look good. I expected alot worse considering this truck has spent 24 Winters in these salty Michigan roads.
on a side note, I need to find a couple rust repair pieces and have had no luck here's what I'm looking for
1. Both front inner fenders
2. Both rear wheel tubs
3. Driver and passenger floor pans
Also does anyone know where to find replacement frame pieces, mainly looking for the rear leaf spring shackle mounts. Any input will helo
I have a left and right inner fender for a 1992 Dakota that are rust free, no dents. What cab do you have? I have a couple Dakota cabs that are also rust free. I may cut parts from one of them or sell the entire cab. What length box you got? The picture looks like you got the six foot box. I have a rust free six foot box also. These are parts trucks and they are not completely assembled.
I am NOT NOT NOT a fan of "rust converter" in the least.... sandblasting to get all the rust out of the corners and crevices then either POR 15 or epoxy paint is a much better alternative.... I need to pull the bed from my 96 and do something with its frame.... the frame on my 92 is cleaner and in better shape even though it is older...... plans are to replace the doors and fenders on the 96 and then paint the cab, paint on bed is still fine. I may spray in a bedliner at that point.... I was looking at that "Monstaliner" stuff and was thinking to do the outer body from the lower body line down with that stuff.... my truck is white, I would like to do some shade of blue for the liner.... and get rid of the gaudy (and water trapping) side moldings and fender edge moldings in the process.....
I understand you may not be a fan of rust converter. Not many are. I used a few that weren't all that great before I found this one. Yes sandblasting is better. But not for this frame. This is a quick easy fix that will last and look good until I get my other frame rebuilt. That frame will be sandblasted, then it's going to get completely boxed with 1/8 in plate then I'll add a couple a couple extra cross braces for strength then the whole thing will be prepped for por-15.
